GET FREE DISASTER PREPAREDNESS TRAINING

Following a major disaster, first responders who provide fire and medical
services will not be able to meet the demand for these services. Factors such
as the number of victims, communication failures, and road blockages will
prevent people from accessing emergency services they have come to expect at
a moment's notice through 911. People will have to rely on each other for help
in order to meet their immediate life saving and life sustaining needs.

The Community Emergency Response Team (CERT) Program educates people
about disaster preparedness for hazards that may impact their area and
trains them in basic disaster response skills, such as fire safety, light
search and rescue, team organization, and disaster medical operations.
Using the training learned in the classroom and during exercises, CERT
members can assist others in their neighborhood or workplace following an
event when professional responders are not immediately available to help.


CERT training is free and offered several times per year either at your
local Fire Department or EMA (Emergency Management Agency). Go to the
link below and type in your zip code to find the nearest CERT program
and call them to enroll in their next available training course all for
FREE.

https://www.citizencorps.gov/cc/searchCert.do?submitByZip

One also expects that under these kinds of conditions, family members, fellow employees, and neighbors will spontaneously try to help each other. This was
the case following the Mexico City earthquake where untrained, spontaneous volunteers saved 800 people.

First, CERT (Community Emergency Response Team) presents citizens the
facts about what to expect following a major disaster in terms of immediate
services.

Second, give the message about their responsibility for mitigation and
preparedness.

Third, train them in needed life saving skills with emphasis on decision
making skills, rescuer safety, and doing the greatest good for the greatest
number.

Fourth, organize teams so that they are an extension of first responder
services offering immediate help to victims until professional services
arrive.


The CERT course will benefit any citizen who takes it. This individual will
be better prepared to respond to and cope with the aftermath of a disaster. Additionally, if a community wants to supplement its response capability
after a disaster, civilians can be recruited and trained as neighborhood,
business, and government teams that, in essence, will be auxiliary responders.
These groups can provide immediate assistance to victims in their area,
organize spontaneous volunteers who have not had the training, and collect
disaster intelligence that will assist professional responders with
prioritization and allocation of resources following a disaster.

The CERT training for community groups is usually delivered in 2 and a half
hour sessions one evening a week over a 7 week period. The training consists
of the following:

•Session I, DISASTER PREPAREDNESS:
Addresses hazards to which people are vulnerable in their community.
Materials cover actions that participants and their families take before,
during, and after a disaster. As the session progresses, the instructor
begins to explore an expanded response role for civilians in that they
should begin to consider themselves disaster workers. Since they will
want to help their family members and neighbors, this training can help
them operate in a safe and appropriate manner.

•Session II, DISASTER FIRE SUPPRESSION:
Briefly covers fire chemistry, hazardous materials, fire hazards, and fire suppression strategies. However, the thrust of this session is the safe use
of fire extinguishers, sizing up the situation, controlling utilities, and extinguishing a small fire.


•Session III, DISASTER MEDICAL OPERATIONS PART I:
Participants practice diagnosing and treating airway obstruction, bleeding,
and shock by using simple triage and rapid treatment techniques.


•Session IV, DISASTER MEDICAL OPERATIONS, PART II:
Covers evaluating patients by doing a head to toe assessment, establishing
a medical treatment area for mass casualties, performing basic first aid,
and practicing in a safe and sanitary manner.


•Session V, LIGHT SEARCH AND RESCUE OPERATIONS:
Participants learn about search and rescue planning, size-up, search
techniques, rescue techniques, and most important, rescuer safety.


•Session VI, DISASTER PSYCHOLOGY AND TEAM ORGANIZATION:
Covers signs and symptoms that might be experienced by the disaster
victim and worker and disaster team management and organization.

•Session VII, COURSE REVIEW AND DISASTER SIMULATION:
Participants review their answers from a take home examination. Finally,
they practice the skills that they have learned during the previous six
sessions in a simulated disaster activity.


During each session participants are required to bring safety equipment
(gloves, goggles, mask) and disaster supplies (bandages, flashlight,
dressings) which will be used during the session. By doing this for each
session, participants are building a disaster response kit of items that
they will need during a disaster.

GENERATING POWER AFTER THE LIGHTS GO OUT

THE LIGHTS HAVE GONE OUT, AND HAVE STAYED OFF FOR SOME
TIME NOW WITH NO RELIEF IN SIGHT. HOW DO YOU GENERATE
ELECTRICITY TO CHARGE YOUR GADGETS OR POWER OTHER
ELECTRIC DEVICES FOR COMMUNICATION, HEAT, AND LIGHT?
THE ANSWER, IS A LOT SIMPLER THEN MANY KNOW. THIS LONG
POST WILL INSTRUCT ON HOW TO GENERATE ELECTRICITY.

BELOW IS A LIST OF CONTENTS:

1)VEHICLE ALTERNATOR / ELECTRIC MOTOR

A) DYNAMO BIKE GENERATOR

B) WINDMILL

C) HYDRO-TURBINE

D)CHARGE CONTROLLER

2)SOLAR POWER

A)BATTERY IN SERIES

B)POWER INVERTER

3)BATTERIES

A)LEMON BATTERY

B)POTATO BATTERY

C)BAGHDAD BATTERY

D)PENNY BATTERY

1) A VEHICLE ALTERNATOR AND ELECTRIC MOTOR BOTH
WORK ON ELECTRO-MOTIVE FORCE, CONVERTING
MECHANICAL ENERGY INTO ELECTRICAL ENERGY BY
FORCING ELECTRONS TO MOVE BY PASSING A CONDUCTIVE
WIRE OR COIL THROUGH A MAGNETIC FIELD. IT IS THIS
PRINCIPLE THAT ALLOWS FOR STANDARD ELECTRIC
MOTORS TO BE USED AS ELECTRIC GENERATORS AS WELL
AND VICE VERSA. AS A MATTER OF FACT, DUE TO IT'S
COPPER COILING, THE STANDARD VEHICLE ALTERNATOR
IS ACTUALLY BETTER AS AN ELECTRIC MOTOR.



ANY ELECTRIC MOTOR, NO MATTER HOW SMALL, CAN BE
USED TO GENERATE ELECTRICITY SIMPLY BY TURNING
THE CENTER ARMATURE, WHICH IS THE PART THAT SPINS
WHEN AN ELECTRIC CURRENT IS APPLIED. IT SHOULD
BE NOTED THAT THE ARMATURE SHOULD BE SPUN
CLOCKWISE, OR COUNTER-CLOCKWISE WHEN LOOKING AT
THE ARMATURE END, SPINNING THE ARMATURE COUNTER-
CLOCKWISE WILL GENERATE ELECTRICITY BUT NOT AS
MUCH AS SPINNING IT CLOCKWISE. THE VEHICLE
ALTERNATOR FROM ANY VEHICLE OR ELECTRIC MOTOR
FROM A HOUSE HOLD APPLIANCE OR CHILD'S TOY CAN
BE USED. THEY CAN BE USED WITH HOME MADE WINDMILLS,
HOME MADE WATER TURBINES FOR MICRO HYDRO-POWER,
CONNECTED TO ANOTHER MOTOR SUCH AS A LAWNMOWER'S TO
GENERATE POWER, OR CONNECTED TO A BICYCLE FOR DYNAMO
POWER GENERATION. THE FIRST PICTURE SHOWS THE
ALTERNATOR IN A VEHICLE, THE FIRST DRAWING SHOWS A
SIMPLE WINDMILL HOUSING USING A COFFEE CAN, SOME PIECE
OF WOOD, SOME SCREWS, AN ALTERNATOR, A BICYCLE TIRE
AND SOME BINDING MATERIAL. ANOTHER SOURCE FOR POWER
GENERATION IS USING ANY HAND CRANK DYNAMO POWER
DEVICE SUCH AS A CRANK RADIO OR FLASHLIGHT TO
CHARGE OR POWER OTHER DEVICES.





THE NUMBER 3 IN THE FIRST DRAWING IS A HYDRO TURBINE
CREATED FROM CUTTING A COFFEE CAN AND THEN SCREWING IT
ON AN ALTERNATOR / ELECTRIC MOTOR ARMATURE OR ARMATURE
EXTENSION TO KEEP THE ALTERNATOR OUT OF THE WATER. THE
NEXT PICTURE SHOWS A SMALL WINDMILL USING A BICYCLE TIRE
FRAME AND AN ALTERNATOR ON A TRIPOD. THE NEXT TWO
PICTURES SHOW AN ALTERNATOR AND BICYCLE DYNAMO
GENERATOR, ONE USING THE TIRE'S RUBBER AS FRICTION TO
SPIN THE ARMATURE OF AN ELECTRIC MOTOR WHILE THE OTHER
USES A TENSION BELT FROM A VEHICLE TO SPIN THE ARMATURE
OF AN ALTERNATOR.



IN ALL POWER GENERATING DEVICES THAT ARE USED TO
CHARGE BATTERIES IN ORDER TO STORE THE POWER TO BE
USED AT A LATER TIME, UNLESS THERE IS A CHARGE
CONTROLLER THE BATTERY WILL POWER THE ELECTRIC
MOTOR, ALTERNATOR OR PHOTOVOLTAIC SOLAR CELL INSTEAD
OF GENERATING POWER. THE CHARGE CONTROLLER IS SIMPLY
A SEMICONDUCTOR OR TRANSISTOR DESIGNED TO ONLY ALLOW
ELECTRICITY TO FLOW IN ONE DIRECTION. THE PICTURES
BELOW SHOW WHAT THE SEMICONDUCTOR LOOKS LIKE FOR
SALVAGE FROM OLD ELECTRONICS. ITS IMPORTANT TO
POINT OUT THAT THE DIRECTION OF THE ARROWS ON THE
SQUARE TRANSISTORS AND THE PAINTED STRIPE ON THE
CYLINDER SEMICONDUCTORS SHOW THE DIRECTION OF
ELECTRICAL FLOW. THESE SHOULD BE CONNECTED TO THE
POWER LINES RUNNING FROM THE SOURCE OF ELECTRICAL
GENERATION AND POINTING TOWARDS THE BATTERIES.
THIS WILL ALLOW FOR PROPER POWER GENERATION AND
PREVENT POWER LOSS IN PHOTOVOLTAIC SOLAR CELLS
WHEN THE SUN GOES DOWN.



2)SOLAR POWER RELIES ON ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT
BOMBARDING THE PHOTOVOLTAIC MATERIAL FORCING
ELECTRONS TO JUMP BETWEEN A POSITIVE AND
NEGATIVE JUNCTION CREATING AN ELECTRICAL CURRENT.
SOLAR POWER IS USED MORE EXTENSIVELY THEN MANY ARE
AWARE. THEY ARE USED TO POWER STREET LIGHTS AND
ROAD SIGNS, LAWN ORNAMENTS, HOMES AND OFFICE
BUILDINGS. BELOW YOU WILL SEE PICTURES SHOWING SOME
OF THE MOST EASILY ACQUIRED SOLAR PANELS.



THE LARGER PANELS USED ON THE ROAD SIGNS CAN BE USED
TO TRICKLE CHARGE CAR BATTERIES CONNECTED IN PARALLEL
FOR LONGER DURATION OF POWER CONSUMPTION AT THE
BATTERY'S RATED VOLTAGE OR IN SERIES TO INCREASE THE
VOLTAGE BUT NOT THE DURATION. THE PICTURES BELOW SHOWS
HOW IT IS DONE, VERY SIMPLE, CONNECT NEGATIVE TO
NEGATIVE AND POSITIVE TO POSITIVE FOR PARALLEL AND
POSITIVE TO NEGATIVE FOR SERIES. AN EXAMPLE WOULD BE
IF YOU WERE TRYING TO POWER A DEVICE THAT REQUIRED 36
VOLTS DC SUCH AS A POWER INVERTER WHICH TURNS DC POWER
GENERATED FROM BATTERIES, ALTERNATORS AND SOLAR CELLS
INTO AC POWER TO RUN A HEATING COIL OR AIR CONDITIONER.
YOU WOULD CONNECT THREE 12 VOLT DC BATTERIES TOGETHER,
POSITIVE TO NEGATIVE TO GENERATE 36 VOLTS DC. IF YOU
HAD MORE YOU COULD ALSO CONNECT THEM IN PARALLEL
DOUBLING THE DURATION TIME OF WHAT EVER DEVICE YOU ARE
POWERING. ANOTHER OVERLOOKED SOLAR POWERED DEVICE IS
THE COMMON VARIETY SOLAR POWERED SIDEWALK AND GARDEN
LIGHTS. THESE USE SMALL SOLAR CELLS TO USUALLY CHARGE
A SINGLE 'AA' BATTERY WITH A LIGHT SENSING DIODE TURNING
ON THE LIGHT AT NIGHT. THESE CAN BE USED TO CHARGE
RECHARGEABLE 'AA' BATTERIES DURING DAYLIGHT HOURS
THEN REMOVED FOR USE IN OTHER DEVICES.



YOU CAN ALSO CONNECT DEVICE SPECIFIC CHARGING WIRES TO
THE BATTERY COMPARTMENT OF THE SOLAR LIGHTS. ALLOWING
SUCH DEVICES LIKE A CELL PHONE OR MP3 PLAYER TO BE
CHARGED DIRECTLY. NOTE: ALL DEVICES YOUR ATTEMPTING TO
CHARGE IN THIS MANNER SHOULD BE TURNED OFF DUE TO THE
LOW VOLTAGE OF THE TRICKLE CHARGE OR THE DEVICE WILL
NOT CHARGE FULLY UNLESS UTILIZING A MUCH LARGER SOLAR
PANEL.

NEXT WE WILL COVER POWER INVERTERS, QUITE SIMPLE ACTUALLY,
THEY CONVERT DC POWER TO AC POWER. BE MINDFUL OF THE
DEVICES YOU ARE ATTEMPTING TO POWER WITH AN INVERTER,
IT MAY REQUIRE MORE WATTS THEN YOUR INVERTER CAN
HANDLE EITHER NOT POWERING YOUR INTENDED DEVICE OR
OVERHEATING AND DAMAGING YOUR INVERTER. DID YOU KNOW
THAT ELECTRONICS RUN ON DC POWER AND NOT AC? THE
ELECTRONIC DEVICES CONVERT THE AC POWER BACK INTO
DC POWER BEFORE IT GETS TO THE DELICATE ELECTRONICS,
THIS ISN'T TRUE THOUGH WITH MOST ELECTRIC MOTORS.
THE PROBLEM WITH DC POWER IS THAT IT LOOSES STRENGTH
OVER DISTANCE DUE TO THE RESISTANCE OF THE WIRE IT
IS TRAVELING ON, BUT NOT AC POWER. IF YOU HAVE A
LAPTOP, CHECK THE POWER BOX ON YOUR POWER CORD,
IT WILL HAVE ON IT THE DC POWER LEVEL THAT YOUR
LAPTOP OPERATES ON. IF YOU DID NOT HAVE A POWER
INVERTER TO CONVERT THE DC POWER INTO AC, YOU COULD
CUT YOUR POWER CORD BETWEEN YOUR LAPTOP AND THE
POWER BOX AND CONNECT IT TO A DC POWER SOURCE.
JUST MAKE SURE THE POWER SOURCE DOESN'T EXCEED THE
OPERATING DC POWER REQUIREMENTS OR YOU MIGHT DAMAGE
THE ELECTRONICS IN WHAT EVER ELECTRONIC DEVICE YOU
ARE POWERING. YOU CAN FIND SMALL POWER INVERTERS
AT YOUR LOCAL GAS STATION, IF NOT THEN GO TO A GAS
STATION WITH TRUCKING DIESEL PUMPS AS THEY TEND TO
BE MINI MALLS FOR TRUCKERS. YOU CAN ALSO FIND THEM
AT YOUR LOCAL WAL-MART OR LOWES OR HOME DEPOT OR
ELECTRONICS STORE. THEY RANGE FROM SMALL CIGARETTE
LIGHTER PLUG-INS MEANT TO POWER ONE DEVICE WITH A
COUPLE HUNDRED WATTS OR LESS TO THOSE THAT POWER
SEVERAL THOUSAND WATTS. THOSE ON THE LATTER END
TEND TO COST AS MUCH AS A GENERATOR DOES THAT
PROVIDES TWICE AS MUCH POWER. POWER INVERTERS ARE
EITHER CONNECTED DIRECTLY TO A STEADY POWER SOURCE
FOR USE ONLY WHEN POWER IS BEING GENERATED, OR ARE
CONNECTED TO A SERIES OR PARALLEL OF BATTERIES FOR
A PROLONGED USE WHILE THEY ARE BEING SLOWLY RECHARGED
BY WHAT EVER POWER GENERATING MEANS IS BEING USED.
BELOW ARE SOME PICTURES OF POWER INVERTERS FOR EASY
IDENTIFICATION. IF YOU ATTEMPT TO POWER A DEVICE
THAT USES AC POWER DIRECTLY WITHOUT BYPASSING THE
AC/DC CONVERTING CIRCUITS OR USE AN INVERTER, YOU
WILL JUST BE WASTING YOUR TIME.


3)BATTERIES ALLOW FOR STORAGE OF POWER FOR PROLONGED
PERIODS OF TIME. IT IS BECAUSE OF SUCH, THAT DURING
ANY DISASTER BATTERIES BECOME HOARDED AND SCARCE.
WHEN CAR BATTERIES, SMALLER BATTERIES USED FOR
MOTORCYCLES AND OTHER RECREATIONAL VEHICLES, AND SMALL
APPLIANCE BATTERIES ARE ALL GONE YOU WILL HAVE TO
RECHARGE OR CREATE THEM. BATTERIES THAT HAVE REMOVABLE
FILL CAPS CAN BE RECHARGED BY ADDING WATER WHILST OTHERS
ARE SEALED AND MAINTENANCE FREE BUT HAVE A LIMITED USE
TIME, USUALLY AROUND 5 YEARS . YOU CAN CREATE A SIMPLE
BATTERY BY PUTTING A COPPER PENNY IN ONE END ON A LEMON
OR POTATO AND A ZINC COATED NAIL OR 5 CENT NICKLE IN THE
OTHER AND CONNECTING WIRES. YOU CAN EVEN DO THIS IN
SERIES TO CREATE ORGANIC BATTERIES CAPABLE OF POWERING
ELECTRONIC DEVICES.



YOU CAN ALSO CREATE A BAGHDAD BATTERY BY USING A GLASS,
CLAY OR PLASTIC CONTAINER THEN PLACING A COPPER SHEET
AND IRON ROD SEPARATED BY NON CONDUCTING MATERIAL,
JUST FILL THE CONTAINER WITH ACIDIC LIQUID SUCH AS LEMON JUICE,
LIME, GRAPEFRUIT, ORANGE, TOMATO JUICE, VINEGAR OR YOU
CAN CREATE YOUR OWN BY DISSOLVING SALT INTO WARM WATER
UNTIL NO MORE SALT WILL DISSOLVE AND USE THAT AS YOUR
ELECTROLYTE. THEN JUST CONNECT A WIRE TO THE COPPER
SHEETING AND A WIRE TO THE IRON ROD. MAKE THESE TO
CONNECT IN SERIES OR PARALLEL TO POWER OR CHARGE
ELECTRIC DEVICES. AN ALTERNATIVE IS JUST FILLING CUPS
WITH AN ELECTROLYTE AND PLACING A PIECE OF COPPER ON
ONE SIDE AND A PIECE OF ZINC ON THE OTHERS AND DOING
THIS IN SERIES TO POWER OR CHARGE DEVICES BUT THE SCALE
NEEDED TO EQUAL TO ONE 'AA' WOULD TAKE UP A LOT OF
SPACE AND MATERIALS.




ANOTHER BATTERY IS THE PENNY BATTERY, GET PENNYS DATED
1983 OR EARLIER AS THEY ARE MADE MOSTLY OF COPPER, AFTER
1983 THE U.S. PENNY WAS COMPOSED MAINLY OF ZINC AND
THOUGH ZINC WILL WORK WITH COPPER,
IT WON'T REPLACE COPPER. YOU COULD MAKE A PENNY BATTERY
OUT OF OLD AND NEW PENNIES. THE OLD ONES ARE THE COPPER
ELEMENT AND THE NEW ONES ONCE SANDED DOWN ARE THE
ZINC COMPONENT. OR YOU COULD JUST USE SECTIONS OF
COPPER SHEETING FOUND AT YOUR LOCAL HOBBY STORE. NEXT
GET AN EQUAL NUMBER OF NICKELS OR SMALL CUT SECTIONS OF
ZINC COATED (ANODIZED=ZINC COATED) STEEL SHEETING. SAND
THE FACES OF THE NICKELS(ZINC-NICKEL ALLOY) AND PENNYS
UNTIL THEY ARE FLAT SURFACES. NEXT, PLACE A FILLER MATERIAL
SUCH AS FELT, CLOTH, OR EVEN TISSUE PAPER TO GO BETWEEN
EACH PENNY AND NICKEL. STACK THE PENNYS AND NICKELS
(OR ANODIZED STEEL PIECES) PENNY, FILLER, NICKEL, FILLER AND
SO ON. START WITH THE NICKLE AND END WITH THE PENNY. NOW
CONNECT A WIRE TO EACH END, ONE SHOULD BE A PENNY AND
THE OTHER SHOULD BE A NICKEL. KEEP THEM TOGETHER WITH
TAPE, A GLUE GUN OR RUBBER COATED WIRE AND PLACE EITHER
IN A ZIPLOCK BAG OR SOME OTHER CONTAINER OR SOAK IT FIRST
THEN WRAP IT UP IN PLASTIC WRAP TO HOLD IT TOGETHER. THE
OTHER AFORE MENTIONED ZIPLOCK BAG OR OTHER CONTAINER
YOU WILL NEED TO FILL IT WITH ENOUGH ACIDIC FLUID TO KEEP
THE FILLER SATURATED AND YOU HAVE YOURSELF A PENNY
BATTERY. NOTE: THE COPPER IS THE POSITIVE END OF THE
BATTERY AND THE NICKEL OR ZINC/ANODIZED STEEL IS THE
NEGATIVE. THE BEST THING ABOUT THIS BATTERY, ARE THE
EASILY OBTAINABLE MATERIALS NEEDED TO CONSTRUCT IT.

KEEPING FOOD SAFE TO EAT IN AN EMERGENCY

Did you know that a flood, fire, national disaster, or the loss of power from high winds, snow, or ice could jeopardize the safety of your food? Knowing how to determine if food is safe and how to keep food safe will help minimize the potential loss of food and reduce the risk of food borne illness such as botulism which causes paralysis and death due to respiratory failure. Food borne botulism accounts for roughly 25% of all cases. Infant botulism caused by bottle feeding formula, milk and juices accounts for roughly 70% of all cases with 3% going to wound botulism, something that is relatively new. So, if you have infants or toddlers, thoroughly clean those bottles and sippie cups and ensure they are not drinking from ones that have been laying around for hours or days, one sip is all that it takes. Standard food poisoning can be handled with bed rest but botulism has no natural remedy. The cure for botulism is taking anti-toxins such as "Trivalent" which is kept at the local Center for Disease Control (CDC) and sent to the hospital if needed. This information below will help you make the right decisions for keeping your family safe during an emergency and for detecting the symptoms of botulism.


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ABCD’s of Keeping Food Safe in an Emergency
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1)Always keep meat, poultry, fish, and eggs refrigerated at or below 40 °F and frozen food at or below 0 °F. This may be difficult when the power is out.

2)Keep the refrigerator and freezer doors closed as much as possible to maintain the cold temperature.

3)The refrigerator will keep food safely cold for about 4 hours if it is unopened.

4)A full freezer will hold the temperature for approximately 48 hours (24 hours if it is half full) if the door remains closed.

5)Obtain dry or block ice to keep your refrigerator as cold as possible if the power is going to be out for a prolonged period of time.

6)Fifty pounds of dry ice should hold an 18-cubic foot full freezer for 2 days. Plan ahead and know where dry ice and block ice can be purchased.



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Be prepared for an emergency...

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1)By having items on hand that don’t require refrigeration and can be eaten cold or heated on the outdoor grill.

2)Shelf-stable food, boxed or canned milk, water, and canned goods should be part of a planned emergency food supply.

3)Make sure you have ready-to-use baby formula for infants and pet food.

4)Remember to use these items and replace them from time to time.

5)Be sure to keep a hand-held can opener for an emergency.

6)Consider what you can do ahead of time to store your food safely in an emergency.

7)If you live in a location that could be affected by a flood, plan your food storage on shelves that will be safely out of the way of contaminated water.

8)Coolers are a great help for keeping food cold if the power will be out for more than 4 hours—have a couple on hand along with frozen gel packs.

9)When your freezer is not full, keep items close together—this helps the food stay cold longer.

10)Digital, dial, or instant-read food thermometers and appliance thermometers will help you know if the food is at safe temperatures.

11)Keep appliance thermometers in the refrigerator and freezer at all times.

12)When the power is out, an appliance thermometer will always indicate the temperature in the refrigerator and freezer no matter how long the power has been out.

13)The refrigerator temperature should be 40 °F or below; the freezer, 0 °F or lower.

14)If you’re not sure a particular food is cold enough, take its temperature with a food thermometer.

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Frequently Asked Questions:

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Q. Flood waters covered our food stored on shelves and in cabinets. What can I keep and what should I throw out?

A. Do not eat any food that may have come into contact with flood water.

1)Discard any food that is not in a waterproof container if there is any chance that it has come into contact with flood water.

2)Food containers that are not waterproof include those with screw-caps, snap lids, pull tops, and crimped caps.

3)Also, discard cardboard juice/milk/baby formula boxes and home canned foods if they have come in contact with flood water, because they cannot be effectively cleaned and sanitized.

4)Inspect canned foods and discard any food in damaged cans.

**Can damage is shown by swelling, leakage, punctures, holes, fractures, extensive deep rusting, or crushing/denting severe enough to prevent normal stacking or opening with a manual, wheel-type can opener.**

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Steps to Salvage All-Metal Cans and Retort Pouches

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1)Undamaged, commercially prepared foods in all-metal cans and retort pouches (for example, flexible, shelf-stable juice or seafood pouches) can be saved if you do the following:

a)Remove the labels, if they are the removable kind, since they can harbor dirt
and bacteria.

b)Thoroughly wash the cans or retort pouches with soap and water, using hot
water if it is available.

c)Brush or wipe away any dirt or silt.

d)Rinse the cans or retort pouches with water that is safe for drinking, if
available, since dirt or residual soap will reduce the effectiveness of chlorine
sanitation.

2)Then, sanitize them by immersion in one of the two following ways:

a)Place in water and allow the water to come to a boil and continue boiling for
2 minutes, or:

b)Place in a freshly made solution consisting of 1 tablespoon of
unscented, liquid chlorine bleach per gallon of drinking water
(or the cleanest, clearest water available) for 15 minutes.

3)Air-dry cans or retort pouches for a minimum of 1 hour before opening or storing.

4)If the labels were removable, then re-label your cans or retort pouches, including the expiration date (if available), with a marker.

5)Food in reconditioned cans or retort pouches should be used as soon as possible thereafter.

6)Any concentrated baby formula in reconditioned, all-metal containers must be diluted with clean, drinking water.

Below is a can that has become bloated:


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Q. How should I clean my pots, pans, dishes, and utensils?

A. Thoroughly wash metal pans, ceramic dishes, and utensils (including can openers) with soap and water, using hot water if available. Rinse and then sanitize them by boiling in clean water or immersing them for 15 minutes in a solution of 1 tablespoon of unscented, liquid chlorine bleach per gallon of drinking water (or the cleanest, clearest water available).

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Q. How should I clean my countertops?

A. Thoroughly wash countertops with soap and water, using hot water if available. Rinse and then sanitize them by applying a solution of 1 tablespoon of unscented, liquid chlorine bleach per gallon of drinking water (or the cleanest, clearest water available). Allow to air-dry.

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Q. My home was flooded and I am worried about the safety of the drinking water. What should I do?

A. Use bottled water that has not been exposed to flood waters if it is available.
If you don't have bottled water, you should boil water to make sure it is safe.
Boiling water will kill most types of disease-causing organisms that may be present.
If the water is cloudy, filter it through clean cloths or allow it to settle, and draw off the clear water for boiling.
Boil the water for one minute, let it cool, and store it in clean containers with covers.
If you can't boil water, you can disinfect it using household bleach.
Bleach will kill some, but not all, types of disease-causing organisms that may be in the water.
If the water is cloudy, filter it through clean cloths or allow it to settle, and draw off the clear water for disinfection.
Add 1/8 teaspoon (or 8 drops) of regular, unscented, liquid household bleach for each gallon of water, stir it well and let it stand for 30 minutes before you use it.
Store disinfected water in clean containers with covers.

If you have a well that had been flooded, the water should be tested and disinfected after flood waters recede.
If you suspect that your well may be contaminated, contact your local or state health department or agriculture extension agent for specific advice.

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Q. We had a fire in our home and I am worried about what food I can keep and what to throw away.

A. Discard food that has been near a fire. Food exposed to fire can be damaged by the heat of the fire, smoke fumes, and chemicals used to fight the fire.
Food in cans or jars may appear to be okay, but the heat from a fire can activate food spoilage bacteria.
If the heat is extreme, the cans or jars themselves can split or rupture, rendering the food unsafe.
One of the most dangerous elements of a fire is sometimes not the fire itself, but toxic fumes released from burning materials.
Discard any raw food or food in permeable packaging—cardboard, plastic wrap, screw-topped jars, bottles, etc.—stored outside the refrigerator.
Food stored in refrigerators or freezers can also become contaminated by fumes. The refrigerator seal isn't airtight and fumes can get inside.
Chemicals used to fight the fire contain toxic materials and can contaminate food and cookware.
Food that is exposed to chemicals should be thrown away—the chemicals cannot be washed off the food.
This includes food stored at room temperature, such as fruits and vegetables, as well as food stored in permeable containers like cardboard and screw-topped jars and bottles.
Cookware exposed to fire-fighting chemicals can be decontaminated by washing in soap and hot water.
Then submerge for 15 minutes in a solution of 1 tablespoon unscented, liquid chlorine bleach per gallon of water.

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Q. A snowstorm knocked down the power lines, can I put the food from the refrigerator and freezer out in the snow?

A. No, frozen food can thaw if it is exposed to the sun's rays even when the temperature is very cold.
Refrigerated food may become too warm and food borne bacteria could grow.
The outside temperature could vary hour by hour and the temperature outside will not protect refrigerated and frozen food.
Additionally, perishable items could be exposed to unsanitary conditions or to animals.
Animals may harbor bacteria or disease; never consume food that has come in contact with an animal.
Rather than putting the food outside, consider taking advantage of the cold temperatures by making ice.
Fill buckets, empty milk cartons or cans with water and leave them outside to freeze.
Then put the homemade ice in your refrigerator, freezer, or coolers.

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Q. Some of my food in the freezer started to thaw or had thawed when the power came back on. Is the food safe? How long will the food in the refrigerator be safe with the power off?

A. Never taste food to determine its safety! You will have to evaluate each item separately.
If an appliance thermometer was kept in the freezer, read the temperature when the power comes back on.
If the appliance thermometer stored in the freezer reads 40 °F or below, the food is safe and may be refrozen.
If a thermometer has not been kept in the freezer, check each package of food to determine the safety.
Remember you can’t rely on appearance or odor.
If the food still contains ice crystals or is 40 °F or below, it is safe to refreeze.
Refrigerated food should be safe as long as power is out no more than 4 hours. Keep the door closed as much as possible.
Discard any perishable food (such as meat, poultry, fish, eggs, and leftovers) that have been above 40 °F for 2 hours.

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Q. May I refreeze the food in the freezer if it thawed or partially thawed?

A. Yes, the food may be safely refrozen if the food still contains ice crystals or is at 40 °F or below.
You will have to evaluate each item separately.
Be sure to discard any items in either the freezer or the refrigerator that have come into contact with raw meat juices.
Partial thawing and refreezing may reduce the quality of some food, but the food will remain safe to eat.
See the charts below for specific recommendations.

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IN CONCLUSION

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Be Prepared:

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1)Have a refrigerator thermometer.

2)Know where you can get dry ice.

3)Keep on hand a few days worth of ready-to-eat foods that do not require cooking or cooling, which depend on electricity.

4)Refrigerators should be kept at 40° F or below for proper food storage.

5)Know where your local Center for Disease Control (CDC) facility is located.

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CDC LOCATIONS

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Currently the CDC has 10 major facility locations listed below:

Atlanta, Georgia
Anchorage, Alaska
Cincinnati, Ohio
Fort Collins, Colorado
Hyattsville, Maryland
Morgantown, West Virginia
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Research Triangle Park, North Carolina
San Juan, Puerto Rico
Spokane, Washington
Washington, D.C.

The CDC also has many minor facilities that may carry anti-toxins for distribution to hospitals should the need arise. Because of such, you should know the general location of the nearest facility in the event of a disaster to procure anti-toxins should a loved one suffer the effects of botulism.

*NOTE* Military hospitals carry anti-toxins for neurotoxins such as botulism as well should a military base be closer then a CDC facility. Usually during a disaster the military will set up local field hospitals to help treat civilian casualties near the epicenter of the disaster. On a large scale disaster field hospitals will spring up closer to the military bases and the outskirts of the disaster zone from neighboring states with rescue crews and helicopters making incursions into the disaster zone looking for survivors.

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When the Power Goes Out:

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1)Keep the refrigerator and freezer doors closed as much as possible.

2)The refrigerator will keep food cold for about 4 hours if it is unopened.

3)Freezers will keep food frozen for 24-48 hours as long as the freezer door is kept shut and depending on the current filled capacity.

4)When in doubt about the edibility of a refrigerated or canned food item, throw it out.

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Refrigerator Foods

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

When to Save and When to Throw It Out

*****NOTE: DISCARD ITEMS FOLLOWED BY (S) ARE FINE IF COOKED IN A SURVIVAL SITUATION WITHOUT PRESENTING A SERIOUS HEALTH RISK*****

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

FOOD Held above 40 °F for over 2 hours

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MEAT, POULTRY, SEAFOOD

Raw or leftover cooked meat, poultry, fish, or seafood; soy meat substitutes

Discard

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Thawing meat or poultry

Discard

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Meat, tuna, shrimp,chicken, or egg salad

Discard

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Gravy, stuffing, broth

Discard(S)

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Lunchmeats, hot dogs, bacon, sausage, dried beef

Discard

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Pizza – with any topping

Discard(S)

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Canned hams labeled "Keep Refrigerated"

Discard

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Canned meats and fish, opened

Discard

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CHEESE

Soft Cheeses: blue/bleu, Roquefort, Brie, Camembert, cottage, cream, Edam,
Monterey Jack, ricotta, mozzarella, Muenster, Neufchatel, queso blanco, queso fresco

Discard(S)

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Hard Cheeses: Cheddar, Colby, Swiss, Parmesan, provolone, Romano

Safe

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Processed Cheeses

Safe

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Shredded Cheeses

Discard

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Low-fat Cheeses

Discard

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Grated Parmesan, Romano, or combination (in can or jar)

Safe

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DAIRY

Milk, cream, sour cream, buttermilk, evaporated milk, yogurt, eggnog, soy milk

Discard

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Butter, margarine

Safe

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Baby formula, liquid, opened

Discard

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EGGS

Fresh eggs, hard-cooked in shell, egg dishes, egg products

Discard

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Custards and puddings

Discard

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

CASSEROLES, SOUPS, STEWS

Discard(S for vegetables and pastas only)

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FRUITS

Fresh fruits, cut

Safe

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Fruit juices, opened

Safe

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Canned fruits, opened

Safe

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Fresh fruits, coconut, raisins, dried fruits, candied fruits, dates

Safe

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SAUCES, SPREADS, JAMS

Opened mayonnaise, tartar sauce, horseradish

Discard if above 50°F for over 8 hrs.

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Peanut butter

Safe

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Jelly, relish, taco sauce, mustard, catsup, olives, pickles

Safe

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Worcestershire, soy, barbecue, Hoisin sauces

Safe

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Fish sauces (oyster sauce)

Discard

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Opened vinegar-based dressings

Safe

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Opened creamy-based dressings (IE ranch, thousand island ect...)

Discard

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Spaghetti sauce, opened jar

Discard(S if not with meat and no visible mold has formed)

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BREAD, CAKES, COOKIES,PASTA, GRAINS

Bread, rolls, cakes, muffins, quick breads, tortillas

Safe

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Refrigerator biscuits,rolls, cookie dough

Discard(S)

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Cooked pasta, rice, potatoes

Discard(S)

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Pasta salads with mayonnaise or vinaigrette

Discard

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Fresh pasta

Discard(S)

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Cheesecake

Discard

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Breakfast foods –waffles, pancakes, bagels

Safe

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PIES, PASTRY Pastries, cream filled

Discard

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Pies – custard,cheese filled, or chiffon; quiche

Discard

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Pies, fruit

Safe

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VEGETABLES

Fresh mushrooms, herbs, spices

Safe

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Greens, pre-cut, pre-washed, packaged

Discard(S)

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Vegetables, raw

Safe

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Vegetables, cooked; tofu

Discard

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Vegetable juice, opened

Discard(S if no visable mold is present)

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Baked potatoes

Discard(S)

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Commercial garlic in oil

Discard(S)

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Potato Salad

Discard

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Frozen Food

When to Save and When To Throw It Out

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FOOD

Still contains ice crystals and feels as cold as if refrigerated
versus
Thawed. Held above 40 °F for over 2 hours.

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MEAT, POULTRY, SEAFOOD

Beef, veal, lamb, pork, and ground meats

Refreeze
vs
Discard

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Poultry and ground poultry

Refreeze
vs
Discard

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Variety meats (liver, kidney, heart, chitterlings)

Refreeze
vs
Discard

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Casseroles, stews, soups

Refreeze
vs
Discard

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Fish, shellfish, breaded

Refreeze. However there will be some texture and flavor loss.
vs
Discard seafood products

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DAIRY Milk

Refreeze. May lose some texture.
vs
Discard

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Eggs (out of shell) and egg products

Refreeze
vs
Discard

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ice cream, frozen yogurt

Discard
vs
Discard

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Cheese (soft and semi-soft)

Refreeze. May lose some texture
vs
Discard(S)

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hard cheeses

Refreeze
vs
Refreeze

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Shredded cheeses

Refreeze
vs
Discard

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Casseroles containing milk, cream, eggs, soft cheeses

Refreeze
vs
Discard

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Cheesecake

Refreeze
vs
Discard

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FRUITS Juices

Refreeze
vs
Refreeze. Discard if mold, yeasty smell, or sliminess develops.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Home or commercially packaged

Refreeze. Will change texture and flavor.
vs
Refreeze. Discard if mold, yeasty smell or slimines develops.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

VEGETABLES Juices

Refreeze
vs
Discard(S) After held above 40°F for 6 hours.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Home or commercially packaged or blanched

Refreeze. May suffer texture and flavor loss.
vs
Discard(S) After held above 40°F for 6 hours.

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BREADS, PASTRIES

Breads, rolls, muffins, cakes (without custard fillings)

Refreeze
vs
Refreeze

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Cakes, pies, pastries with custard or cheese filling

Refreeze
vs
Discard

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Pie crusts, commercial and homemade bread dough

Refreeze. Some quality loss may occur.
vs
Refreeze. Quality loss is considerable.

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OTHER

Casseroles – pasta, rice based

Refreeze
vs
Discard(S)

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Flour, cornmeal, nuts

Refreeze
vs
Refreeze

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Breakfast items –waffles, pancakes, bagels

Refreeze
vs
Refreeze

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Frozen meal, entree, specialty items (pizza, sausage and biscuit,meat pie,convenience foods)

Refreeze
vs
Discard(S for cheese or vegatable pizzas)

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IMPORTANT DOCUMENTS

ONE OF THE MOST TIME CONSUMING, AND HEART WRENCHING ORDEALS AFTER THE DUST HAS SETTLED FROM A DISASTER, IS PIECING TOGETHER ONE'S LIFE FROM THE RUBBLE, ESPECIALLY IN A BUREAUCRACY. TIME AND AGAIN FAMILIES THAT SURVIVE DISASTER COMMENT THAT THE THINGS THEY MISSED LOSING THE MOST ARE THE THINGS THAT THEY CAN NEVER GET BACK. SUCH AS PICTURES AND BIRTH CERTIFICATES WITH THEIR CHILDREN'S INFANT FOOT PRINTS ON THEM OR IMPORTANT DOCUMENTS THAT ARE NOT ONLY HARD TO GET DUPLICATES OF BUT EVEN HARDER WHEN YOU HAVE NO PROOF AS TO WHO YOU ARE.
IT IS FOR THIS REASON THAT IMPORTANT DOCUMENTS SHOULD ALL BE PHOTOCOPIED AND/OR TURNED INTO DIGITAL DATA AND STORED IN SEVERAL LOCATIONS TO ENSURE THEY, LIKE YOU, WILL SURVIVE A DISASTER. MOST DISASTERS A FAMILY WILL FACE ARE SMALL AND LIMITED ONES SUCH AS A HOUSE FIRE, TORNADO OR FLOOD.






STEP 1
----------------------
ROUND UP ALL IMPORTANT DOCUMENTS:

1)BIRTH CERTIFICATES
2)SOCIAL SECURITY CARDS
3)TITLES AND DEEDS TO VEHICLES AND PROPERTY
4)MARRIAGE CERTIFICATES
5)EDUCATION CERTIFICATES
6)DD 214 FOR THOSE WITH MILITARY SERVICE
7)LIFE INSURANCE POLICIES
8)HEALTH INSURANCE CARDS
9)HOME AND CAR INSURANCE CARD
10)DRIVER'S LICENSE / IDENTIFICATION CARD OR GREEN CARD
11)PASSPORT
12)PICTURES (USUALLY ABOUT 100 OR SO PICTURES OF FAMILY AND SUCH THAT YOU CHERISH THE MOST BUT "ALSO" INCLUDE AS RECENT AS POSSIBLE, PICTURES OF YOU AND YOUR LOVED ONE'S AND FAMILY MEMBER'S FACES, MAY NEED TO UPDATE EVERY 10 YEARS OR SO IF THEY ARE ADULTS AND EVERY COUPLE OF YEARS FOR THOSE UNDER 20 TO BE USED TO HELP LOCATE LOVED ONES SEPARATED, MISSING OR KILLED DUE TO A DISASTER)

STEP 2
-------------------------
PHOTOCOPY ALL THE DOCUMENTS AND MAKE SEVERAL COPIES OF EACH ONE EITHER AT YOUR RESIDENCE OR YOUR LOCAL COPIER SUCH AS KINKOS OR FEDEX.
(OPTIONAL)
SCAN ALL THE DOCUMENTS EITHER AT YOUR RESIDENCE OR AT YOUR LOCAL COPIER SUCH AS KINKOS OR FEDEX TURNING THEM INTO DIGITAL COPIES AND DOWNLOAD THEM ALONG WITH YOUR 100 OR SO PICTURES ONTO A SCAN DISK/THUMB DRIVE/MEMORY STICK/USB DRIVE WHICH YOU CAN GET FOR UNDER $10 AT WAL-MART, 2 GIGS OF MEMORY IS PLENTY.



STEP 3
------------------------
FOLD THE STACK OF DOCUMENTS AND PLACE EACH SET OF PHOTOCOPIED AND REAL DOCUMENTS INSIDE SEPARATE LARGE 1 TO 2 GALLON ZIPLOCK FREEZER BAGS AS THESE ARE MEANT TO KEEP OUT MOISTURE AND THEN PLACE THAT INSIDE ANOTHER ZIPLOCK BAG. THIS WILL HELP ENSURE THAT THEY ARE NOT DESTROYED BY FLOOD WATERS.
IF IT IS DIGITAL AND ON A MEMORY STICK THEN DO THE SAME, DOUBLE ZIPLOCK BAG IT
BUT YOU CAN USE SIMPLE SAND WHICH ZIPLOCK BAGS.

STEP 4
------------------------
NOW PLACE YOUR ORIGINALS SOME WHERE YOU CAN GET TO THEM EASILY OR GRAB ON YOUR WAY OUT OF THE HOUSE OR PLACE THEM IN YOUR BUGOUT BAG OR PLACE THEM IN A SMALL FIRE SAFE.
GIVE ONE OF THE PHOTOCOPIED SETS TO YOUR MOTHER/FATHER/SISTER/BROTHER OR OTHER FAMILY MEMBER THAT YOU CAN TRUST THAT RESIDES ELSEWHERE, THIS IS YOUR BACK UP SET.
YOU MAY EVEN PLACE A SET IN A BANK DEPOSIT BOX, OR IN A WATER PROOF CONTAINER BURIED IN YOUR BACK YARD, THE CHOICES ARE YOURS BUT REMEMBER THAT DURING THIS AGE OF IDENTITY THEFT SOME PLACES CAN BE MORE HAZARDOUS THEN MAY WARRANT. FOR EXAMPLE, DO NOT PLACE THEM IN YOUR CAR.

NOTES:
REMEMBER THAT WHEN EVER YOU LEAVE YOUR RESIDENCE YOU SHOULD HAVE SOME FORM OF IDENTIFICATION ON YOU.

FOR THE SAKE OF SPACE AND AS A BACK UP, YOU MAY WANT TO HAVE BOTH, A PHOTOCOPIED HARD COPY AND A MEMORY STICK DIGITAL COPY OF ALL YOUR IMPORTANT DOCUMENTS AND PHOTOS, ESPECIALLY YOUR PHOTOS.

FUEL AND ALTERNATIVES FOR YOUR VEHICLE IN AN EMERGENCY

TYPICALLY DURING AN EMERGENCY SITUATION NOT ONLY DO GROCERY STORES GET BOUGHT OUT OF FOOD, WATER AND BATTERIES, BUT SO DO GAS STATIONS OF LIKE ITEMS AND FUEL. SHORTLY THERE AFTER WHEN THE GASOLINE IS ALL GONE PANIC SETS IN AND VIOLENCE USUALLY ENSUES.


THIS IS WHAT IT BECOMES ONCE YOU GET UP TO THE PUMP:



LITTLE DO MOST KNOW, VEHICLES MADE FROM 2000 AND LATER ARE ABLE TO RUN ON E85 ETHANOL FUEL DUE TO THE ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT IN YOUR CAR AND YOUR CAR'S SENSORS ALLOWING IT TO REGULATE THE AMOUNT OF OXYGEN REQUIRED TO BURN THE FUEL BUT SHOULD ONLY BE DONE IN AN EMERGENCY SITUATION IN NON-FLEX FUEL COMPLIANT VEHICLES AFTER 2000 AS THEY CAUSE CORROSION ON THE METALS IN THE ENGINE FROM PROLONGED USE. SURPRISINGLY ENOUGH, MANY AUTOMOBILES ON THE ROAD ARE FLEX FUEL CAPABLE VEHICLES BUT THE OWNER'S AREN'T AWARE AS ONLY NEWER VEHICLES HAVE THE FLEX FUEL SYMBOL OF A ROAD WITH A GREEN LEAF ON THEM. HERE IS A SITE LISTING FLEX FUEL CAPABLE VEHICLES TO CHECK AND SEE IF YOU ALREADY OWN ONE AS THEY WERE MADE AS FAR BACK AS 1995.

http://www.afdc.energy.gov/afdc/ethanol/ethanol_locations.html





THERE ARE PROS AND CONS TO USING E85 ON A REGULAR BASIS, IT PRODUCES 1/3RD LESS CARBON AND COSTS USUALLY ABOUT 50 CENTS LESS PER GALLON, YOUR OIL ONLY NEEDS TO BE CHANGED EVERY 6,000 MILES VERSUS EVERY 3,000 AND YOUR ENGINE RUNS QUIETER, (UNLESS YOUR VEHICLE IS NOT FLEX-FUEL COMPLIANT, IN WHICH CASE YOU MAY HEAR A LITTLE KNOCKING IN THE ENGINE) BUT YOU GET LESS MILES PER GALLON, THERE ARE FEWER REFUELING SITES THEN REGULAR GASOLINE, AND EVEN THOUGH YOU WILL SPEND LESS EVERY TIME YOUR AT THE PUMP, YOU WILL GO TO THE PUMP MORE AND SPEND MORE PER YEAR. BELOW IS A SITE THAT SHOWS BY STATE, CITY AND ADDRESS ALL E85 REFUELING POINTS, YOU PROBABLY HAVE SEVERAL IN YOUR TOWN BUT DON'T KNOW IT.

http://www.afdc.energy.gov/afdc/ethanol/ethanol_locations.html

DIESEL VEHICLES CAN RUN ON FILTERED COOKING OIL FROM YOURS OR YOUR LOCAL FAST FOOD CHAIN'S DEEP VAT FRYER OR CHEMICALLY ALTERING REGULAR COOKING OIL WHICH IS EXPLAINED BELOW IN THESE 2 YOUTUBE VIDEOS:

PART 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M35fpHisy4E&feature=related)

PART 2 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TdXA8K6shzU&NR=1&feature=fvwp)

DIESELS CAN ALSO BE RUN ON PROCESSED USED MOTOR OIL AS WELL BUT IS MORE TIME CONSUMING AND REQUIRES SPECIFIC EQUIPMENT TO DO IT PROPERLY WITH AN INCREASED CHANCE OF DAMAGING YOUR ENGINE AND OR FUEL SYSTEM.

SIMPLY HEAT THE USED WASTE OIL TO BETWEEN 200 - 300 DEGREES AND THEN FILTER IT SEVERAL TIMES THROUGH VARIOUS SIZED MICRON FILTERS USUALLY STARTING AT 20, THEN 15 AND 10 THEN DOWN TO 5 OR EVEN 1, NEXT THOROUGHLY MIX IT IN WITH AN EQUAL PART OF DIESEL FUEL FOR 15-30 MINUTES UNTIL THERE IS NO VISIBLE SEPARATION OF FLUIDS AND YOU HAVE JUST DOUBLED THE AMOUNT OF FUEL YOU HAD FOR YOUR DIESEL FUELED VEHICLE. IN LOCATING LARGE SOURCES OF USED MOTOR OIL, JUST CHECK YOUR LOCAL MECHANIC SHOP OR YOUR LOCAL RECYCLE POINT AS THEY USUALLY HAVE 55 GALLON DRUMS OR LARGE PLASTIC STORAGE UNITS FOR WASTE OILS. DIESELS CAN ALSO RUN ON FILTERED TRANSMISSION FLUID AND HYDRAULIC OIL. BE FOREWARNED TO THE POTENTIAL FOR DAMAGING YOUR ENGINE AND ALSO NOTE THAT THESE FUELS MAY PREVENT THE ENGINE FROM RUNNING DURING COLDER TIMES AND LOCATIONS. AS A PRECAUTION, DURING COLDER CLIMATES OR IN COLDER LOCALES, DO NOT EXCEED A 25% MIX.


OTHER LOCATIONS OR SOURCES FOR GASOLINE, ETHANOL, OR DIESEL: GO TO NEW AND USED CAR LOTS, EACH VEHICLE ON THE LOT USUALLY CONTAINS A FEW GALLONS OF GAS OR DIESEL PER VEHICLE. EVEN THOUGH YOUR LOCAL GAS STATION MAY BE OUT OF GASOLINE, DIESEL OR EVEN E85, CHANCES ARE THEY STILL HAVE QUARTS OF MOTOR OIL THAT YOU CAN BLEND WITH DIESEL TO INCREASE FUEL VOLUME BUT WOULD SUGGEST NO MORE THEN 1/3RD OF UNUSED MOTOR OIL TO DIESEL MIX, OR BOTTLES OF FUEL INJECTOR CLEANER, HEET, OR OCTANE BOOSTER FOR GASOLINE OR FLEX FUEL E85 ENGINES WITH A MIX OF NO MORE THEN 1/3RD OF OTHER TO GASOLINE OR E85 AS A GENERAL RULE OF THUMB FOR ALL YEARS AND MAKES BECAUSE THEY ARE COMPOSED MAINLY OF METHOL-ALCOHOL AND WILL BURN FINE IF YOUR VEHICLE WAS MADE FROM 2000 ON BUT EARLIER MODELS DATING BEFORE 2000 SHOULD BE FILLED WITH NO LESS THEN 75% GASOLINE UNLESS THEY ARE FLEX FUEL CAPABLE.

MAKE A CHEAP FIRST AID/SURGICAL KIT

Making a home first-aid kit or survival surgical kit does not have to be expensive, hard or large. Below is a simple list that should be able to handle most situations at the home or during an emergency. There are 3 lists below, the first is for the home first-aid kit, the second one is the surgical kit and the third is a combination of both followed by an average construction cost.

BASIC FIRST AID KIT
-------------------------------

1) BANDAIDS OR COTTON BALLS
2) GAUZE OR COTTON SQUARES
3) SURGICAL TAPE / COMPRESSION TAPE / COMPRESSION WRAP OR ANY STERILE MATERIAL TO SECURE BANDAGE
4) ASPIRIN FOR ACHES AND FEVER
5) OINTMENT OR VASELINE
6) TWEEZERS OR IMPROVISED VERSION MADE FROM A CANNED GOODS LID
7) SMALL CONTAINER OF BLEACH/WATER SOLUTION 1/5 OR HAND SANITIZER OR 90% ALCOHOL OR IODINE FOR WOUND SITE STERILIZING
8) WATER PROOF CONTAINER

ESTIMATED CONSTRUCTION COST = $5 - $8

BASIC SURGICAL KIT
-------------------------------

1) GAUZE OR COTTON SQUARES
2) SURGICAL TAPE / COMPRESSION TAPE / COMPRESSION WRAP OR ANY STERILE MATERIAL TO SECURE BANDAGE
3) ASPIRIN FOR ACHES AND FEVER
4) OINTMENT OR VASELINE
5) TWEEZERS OR IMPROVISED VERSION MADE FROM A CANNED GOODS LID
6) SMALL CONTAINER OF BLEACH/WATER SOLUTION 1/5 OR 90% ALCOHOL FOR WOUND SITE AND EQUIPMENT STERILIZING
7) DENTAL FLOSS OR THREAD
8) SEWING NEEDLES
9) LATEX GLOVES (OPTIONAL)
10)FACE MASKS (OPTIONAL)
11)LED LIGHT (OPTIONAL)
12)WATER PROOF CONTAINER

ESTIMATED CONSTRUCTION COST = $8 - $12

COMBINED AND ENHANCED FIRST-AID/SURGICAL KIT
---------------------------------------------

1) BANDAIDS OR COTTON BALLS
2) GAUZE OR COTTON SQUARES
3) DENTAL FLOSS OR THREAD
4) SEWING NEEDLES
5) SURGICAL TAPE / COMPRESSION TAPE / COMPRESSION WRAP OR ANY STERILE MATERIAL TO SECURE BANDAGE
6) LATEX GLOVES X3 PAIRS (OPTIONAL)(STERILIZE YOUR HANDS AND AVOID CONTACT WITH THE WOUND SITE)
7) FACE MASKS X3(OPTIONAL)(CAN USE CLOTH OVER YOUR MOUTH)
8) ASPIRIN FOR ACHES AND FEVER
9) OINTMENT OR VASELINE
10)TWEEZERS OR IMPROVISED VERSION MADE FROM A CANNED GOODS LID
11)SMALL CONTAINER OF BLEACH/WATER SOLUTION 1/5
12)WATER PROOF CONTAINER
13)A SHARP KNIFE (OPTIONAL) ANY SHARP STERILIZED BLADE WILL SUFFICE
14)ANTIHISTAMINE (OPTIONAL) THE ASPIRIN CAN DEAL WITH THE ACHES CAUSED BY ALLERGIES
15)ANTI-DIARRHEA (OPTIONAL) EATING ASHES AND WOOD COAL WILL STOP DIARRHEA
16)LED LIGHT (OPTIONAL)

NOTE:TOURNIQUET MATERIAL IS USUALLY ON HAND DURING NEARLY ALL EMERGENCY SITUATIONS (A BELT OR PIECE OF ROPE OR RUBBER TUBING OR STRIP OF CLOTH OR ARTICLE OF CLOTHING)

NOTE:SECURE WITH ROPE OR A BELT OR CLOTHING ANY RIGID MATERIAL AROUND YOU (STICKS, LEG OF CHAIR OR TABLE, BROOM HANDLE, LARGE SPOONS OR SPATULA, ANY THING REALLY AS BRACING FOR STABILIZING BROKEN BONES) NO NEED FOR INCLUDING IT IN YOUR KIT DUE TO THE AVAILABILITY OF MATERIALS.

ESTIMATED CONSTRUCTION COST = $10 - $17


3 IMPROVISED VERSIONS OF TWEEZERS MADE FROM A CANNED GOODS LID


AS YOU CAN SEE IN THE PICTURE ABOVE THE KIT DOES NOT HAVE TO BE LARGE AND THE ONE ABOVE IS THE COMBINED FIRST-AID/SURGICAL KIT.

THESE COSTS ARE ESTIMATED AND MAYBE HIGHER OR LOWER DEPENDING ON WHAT YOU MAY ALREADY HAVE IN YOUR HOME OR WHERE YOU GO TO PURCHASE THE MATERIALS FOR THE KITS.

ALL THE ITEMS SHOULD BE ABLE TO FIT IN YOUR KITS BUT MAY REQUIRE SOME ORDERLY PACKING. AS A WAY TO SAVE SPACE TRY USING ZIPLOCK BAGS TO STORE PILLS INSTEAD OF SPACE HOGGING BOTTLES AND DON'T FORGET TO PLACE ABOUT (15) OR SO GRAINS OF RICE IN WITH THE PILLS TO ABSORB MOISTURE AND KEEP THE PILLS FRESH FOR LONGER.

PLACE THE KIT SOMEWHERE EASY TO GET TO BUT OUT OF REACH OF SMALL CHILDREN AND NOT IN A PLACE THAT RECEIVES DIRECT SUNLIGHT. YOU CAN EITHER PAINT THE CONTAINER OR USE ONE THAT IS OPAQUE TO PROTECT THE PILLS AND LATEX GLOVES FROM THE EFFECTS OF ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT

SPREAD THE WORD! 2

Help out the site! If you come across a topic you think has useful information that others you know may find helpful, then feel free to share it with others via facebook, twitter or what ever other form of media you use just by clicking share at the bottom of the post then pick which medium and click publish. We need to get these and other survival tips out to as many people as possible to help potentially save lives and secure our way of life and that of our loved ones in the event of a disaster.

$12 LIFELINE HOME EMERGENCY KIT

I came across this deal at my local T.J.MAXX store(www.tjmaxx.com/)for a lifeline home emergency kit that contains:

1)a 911 emergency lifeline telephone (even though the majority of households use cell phones as their primary means of communication, houses and apartments still have phone jacks in the walls and even if you do not have a land line phone plan, your phone jacks still allow for 911 calls only which is where this phone comes in handy should your phone not be handy or low on power in the event of an emergency and it even comes with the necessary cords for installation)

2)a survival whistle which has other then the whistle a thermometer, a compass, and a magnifying glass for medical purposes or to start a fire.

3)a dynamo hand crank low level light led flashlight for those sudden blackouts.

4)and lastly a battery powered with hand crank power back up manually tunable AM/FM radio with extendable antenna with a flashlight as well, and all on sale for $12 which is not more then the cost of a dynamo flashlight alone.

This is a great kit to have available in your home just in case to use during the next blackout or weather emergency or to use as part of one's bug out bag or survival geocache.