Should any calamity befall you or your family that changes your situation to one of survival, do you know what to do, where to go, how to get there, what to do once you get there, how to provide for yourself and loved ones or what you will need and how much? Most lack the forethought to plan ahead and prepare themselves for any likelihood other then a flat tire, and even then only because the automobile factory placed it in the vehicle for them. Feel free to read, experiment and improvise what I have put on this site to potentially help you one day.



Tuesday, March 29, 2011

NOW FOLLOW THE SURVIVAL GUIDE BY EMAIL


Simple, just type in your email address on the left hand side of the screen and get new posts directly to your email. All brought to you for your convenience, enjoy!

Thursday, March 17, 2011

HOBO MARKINGS: LANGUAGE OF SURVIVAL

READING HOBO SIGNS FOR SURVIVAL
----------------------------------------------------------
Hobo signs - Beginning in the 1880's and still today, hoboes
place markings on fences, posts, signs, sidewalks, buildings,
trestles, bridge abutments, trees and railroad line side equipment to
aid them and others of their kind in finding help or steering them
clear of trouble. Usually, these signs would be written in chalk
or coal letting others know what they could expect in the area
of the symbol.



These symbols can be used today or in an emergency to
assist in finding fresh water or shelter or warning of danger. It
is these symbols which can assist that we will cover and add a few of our own as should the need arise, a pictograph language for communication is one of the simplest and basic forms that allow all regardless of spoken language or education level to quickly grasp and use. You can follow and also emplace these symbols for fellow survivors, communication or for future area or resource recognition.
You will notice that the hobo symbol system has many symbols to express the same thing so we will use them to be more specific. These symbols can be stacked to create more elaborate messages and side by side to create separate warnings or posts much like Japanese writings.


The first row covers the symbol for 'DANGER', a 'GUARANTEED' threat such as toxic/biologically contaminated water or aggressive individuals/rabble/militas. The last symbol in the first row is the symbol for a camp site. This is usually placed in an area that has some cleared space for sleeping and a stone/brick or metal barrel enclosed camp fire site. The symbol is usually placed in all likely approaching directions for ease of locating. If the area was dangerous chances are there wouldn't be a campsite marker.  If the area was safe then became dangerous later then you might hope someone would warn others by at least placing a dot denoting danger in the center where ever it is posted.


The second row contains the symbol for 'SAFE'. Usually referring to a friendly group or community or area free of aggressive animals or people or clean drinking water.


The third row starts off with the symbol for dangerous animals, usually meaning dogs. If there is a number beside it then it is the amount of such animals. If there is no number or a star then there are alot or a pack of aggressively dangerous animals that roam the area so beware. The next several symbols will help guide people to rendezvous points, caches, safe houses and such. The last symbol warns of militia or armed rabble over watching/patrolling/camping in an area in the direction of the arrow on the symbol.


The fourth row starts off with the natural disaster symbol, warning of potentially washed away roads, areas blocked by rubble or other debris or fissures and all natural hazards. The next one warns of military or police bases or camps, check points, road blocks or quarantine zones due to biological, chemical or nuclear contamination. The next symbols are used to show either the area, road, or other resource symbol is unsafe due to potential for human or animal confrontations in the area or due to terrain conditions, especially following a disaster. Notice the difference between the danger symbol, and the unsafe symbol? The danger symbol represents a 'GUARANTEED' threat where as the unsafe symbol represents a 'POTENTIAL' threat.


The fifth row starts with the symbol for thieves or raiders in the area, so keep off the roads and stay in the shadows while scavenging or traveling when you come across this symbol. The next symbol is typically one placed as a warning to all on the boundaries that the building is guarded and the occupants are armed. The third symbol here is a warning that you are potentially within ear shot of a dangerous group either rabble or organized. The last symbol of the road warns that the road is guarded by a group over watching/patrolling the road or manning a road block or traffic control check point. This symbol usually either has the symbol of a military/para-military threat or armed civilian/rabble underneath it better depicting the threat potential of those guarding the road.


The sixth row starts with the symbol telling you to defend yourself, usually meaning that the local groups are very aggressive and will shoot on sight, 'DO NOT APPROACH' for fear of DEATH! The next three symbols are to be placed near entrances of communities or camps to show some of what the community can provide either through good spirit or trade such as medical treatment, food, communication (usually telephonic hard wire land line or by satellite, cell phone) place a transpo symbol under it with either water symbol/road symbol/rail symbol or air symbol to show type of transpo, the transpo symbol denotes hard copy correspondence is the form of communication, the commo symbol above the commo symbol represents that transpo is done by animal message carrier. The air symbol above the communication denotes cb/ham radio. Other symbols on the entrance sign should include such things as water, transportation, shelter, fuel, electricity, religion, education or general trade all dependant on the community situation, location and priorities. Don't forget to place the armed area, armed building, armed civilian symbol or armed community symbol (building inside of an area circle with the diagonal armed line going through it, all at the head of the sign to help ward off potential rabble threats.


The seventh row starts with the symbol letting strangers know that, that particular house is not occupied by anyone and that they are free to sleep there or to get out of the elements with out permission. Take caution as this can be used to ambush people into a false sense of security, don't let your guard down in this situation. Simple way to determine if it is a trap is check to see if there is an external way to lock the doors such as a barricade bracket or if the inside looks like a bloody crime scene. If the windows are only partially boarded up then you are probably fine but if the windows are heavily boarded take caution. Also look for recent activity around the building such as old bodies piled near by but out of sight. Depending on the length of decay will determine the level of putrescent stench present which may be as a direct result of a disaster. The initial 2 weeks after a disaster depending on the season may be one hard to deal with due to the overbearing stench of decay. If it is winter, expect the decay to occur come spring. If a strong smell of decay is present months after a disaster, take caution entering the area. The need for caution is simple, the longer a disaster unfolds the more the situation and area changes, what was a safe haven at one time may be the den of armed rabble later so take caution when entering any derelict structure even now as desperate or homeless people following the economy's downturn may be inhabiting them. The next symbol is placed near a survival cache depicting the direction on one side to go in from the marking and the distance in paces on the other side. These caches tend to be hidden in stumps or under rocks or in small caves and such. Usually a marked trail brings them to the remote area where the cache is and are not typically buried unless meant for a knowing few in which case there would only be a cache symbol but no direction or distance. In such an instance, typically people will place an object as a marker on top of the bury site such as a large rock or several small stones circling the bury site. The next symbol is for transportation, by placing the symbol for road under it it means wheeled transportation. Place the standard symbol for water, not potable water under it designates transpo is by boat. The normal map legend for train tracks under the symbol denotes railed transpo, or if they use the air symbol then transpo is by aircraft of some sort. The last symbol of the line is that for armed civilian, this can mean a locally appointed law enforcer, militia, raider or rogue military. Essentially no one operating under a legitimate governmental authority.


The eighth row starts with the trade or barter symbol, this symbol is usually used to denote money in current hobo society. The next symbol denotes that you have or there is, potable drinking water at this location. The next symbol represents air, either to be placed above the transportation symbol, the communication symbol, the natural or military hazard symbols or above the danger or safe symbols to show whether the threat is chemical (military hazard symbol), biological (natural hazard symbol), or radiological (danger symbol) hazards or that they are safe. Communication symbol with the air symbol above depicts radio is the form of communication available. The last symbol of the line represents shelter is available but owned or controlled by an individual/group or community to be rented or worked for.


The ninth row starts with the symbol for a guarded area and the following show the parts to it. Draw a diagonal line through virtually any other symbol and you are saying that that is guarded. Like wise place certain symbols inside the area circle and you are combining a whole group of areas by type together as one. Then place a diagonal line through it and you are saying that all of those areas are guarded. The last symbol is the symbol for 'FREE', placed either above, inside or below another symbol.


The tenth row shows the symbols for road, railroad, weapons and fuel. To denote that an item is not allowed or not available just place an area circle on the symbol but with the symbol going outside the boundaries such as in the 'Do not go this way' symbol. Stretching outside the boundaries of the area circle denotes that it is not allowed or available but placing it fully inside the area circle denotes that it is allowed or available. Fuel type often is determined by placing an 'A' for alcohol, 'D' for diesel, 'G' for gasoline, 'K' for kerosene, 'P' for propane, 'N' for natural gas and 'O' for other, with what ever is the most abundant the letter is placed inside the bottom bubble, the other fuels if there are any either go to the left, right or both sides of the bottom bubble.


The last row shows symbols for electricity, work available, religion, and education which can also be depicted on signs to attract other survivors. Look around your city, train tracks, barns and woods, you may be pleasantly surprised to find old and new hobo markings.

NOTE: Since hoboes don't typically travel very far, expect many different variations of these symbols from the west coast versus the east coast.

SURVIVAL GEOCACHING

Geocaching is a high-tech treasure hunting game played throughout the
world by adventure seekers equipped with GPS devices or topographical
maps. The basic idea is to locate hidden containers emplaced by other
geocachers, called geocaches, outdoors and then share your experiences
online. Geocaching is enjoyed by people from all age groups, with a
strong sense of community and support for the environment. It is the basic
principle of geocaching that presents multiple opportunities for survival.

Geocache sites often have containers that may contain items that can
be used for survival. Before you go raiding geocache sites, go to the
official website http://www.geocaching.com/ where you can look over
a map of your neighborhood to locate close medium sized cache sites.
Do not destroy these sites please, just make mental notes as to their location.
These sites can be used later as reference or rally points or to be used as
larger cache sites.


Taking a lesson from geocaching, you can place survival items in a container
made water tight and buried or hidden at a designated personal/group/family
rendezvous point. This method, though it runs the risk of being located and
raided by strangers ( unless it is buried ) allows you/friends/family members
to not rely on having a G.O.O.D. bag on hand at all times as you can stash
a grab bag of survival essentials at your rally point. Ensure that all those who
are relevant to your disaster plan know of the location and the exact spot of
the cache or use a phrase or clue word to help them locate the cache. For
example, based on a book title one clue is the cache's title itself, 'Where the
Green Fern Grows', the cache was a bucket with a water tight gamma seal
lid buried with a fake green fern plant attached to the top of the bucket. Other
examples my be 'On a wire', or 'In the fishing hole' for a water proof container
under water but tied to an anchor point or simple as just 'stump' for a container
camouflaged and placed inside a dead tree or stump.



Also use prominent/noticeable terrain features either man made or natural as visual reference cache markers to help with relocating the caches, especially since the landscape tends to change dramatically following natural disasters such as a flood or hurricane. A simple survival cache need not be much, a standard is such but feel free to add to the list:

1)A Knife (can get a simple lock blade from Wal-mart for $1 in the camping section)

2)A Radio with spare batteries in a ziplock bag, do not keep batteries in the radio as they may corrode (can get a simple kids handheld radio for $3 at the Dollar General or for a $1 at specific Dollar Tree stores)

3)Waterproof matches in a water tight container or a flint striker or a lighter
or a combo of these (you can get water proof matches in a water tight container
with a flint strip on the bottom combo at Wal-mart in the camping section for a
$1)

4)Food, usually isn't much just enough to curb hunger and contained in metal to prevent critter infestation such as 2 cans of tweet meat in a can for about $1.25
a can. The high fat and sodium content make tweet meat an excellent choice for
survival just not healthy for anything else :)

5)Plastic sheeting for shelter which you can get at the Dollar Tree for a dollar or just add an extra 30 gallon trash bag per person to save on space.

6)Sewing needles (once again for a $1 at the dollar tree)

7)Dental floss (115 yards at the dollar tree for a $1)

8)Fishing hooks (you can get 20 medium hooks at wal-mart for about $1)

9)Hygiene kit = Bar Soap in a ziplock bag, one toothbrush per person and one tube of toothpaste

10)2 x 30 gallon trash bags per person in order to make hobo sleeping bags

11)A small led flashlight

12)Sealable container (can get one of sufficient size from the dollar tree for a $1)

NOTE: Ensure that everything is individually stored in ziplock bags then all of it is stored in a trash bag to ensure all remains water proof for years if need be. You may also want to place some tealight candles or an emergency space blanket or two in there. Here is one I just got done making and is quite large to hide so I will probably bury it in several trash bags:


Now the one above is for a family and on the large side, there is a simple smaller one for the individual that will fit in a Dollar Tree water bottle or gatorade bottle. Below are the contents:
1)a 30 gallon trash bag,
2)a $1 lock blabe knife from Wal-Mart,
3)a water proof container with matches from Wal-mart for a $1,
4)a spool of 115 yards of dental floss from the Dollar Tree,
5)a packet of small fishing hooks from Wal-mart for $1,
6)a small LED keychain flashlight from the Dollar Tree,
7)(optional)a couple of tea light candles from the Dollar Tree,
8)a couple of sewing needles from the Dollar Tree,
9)a miniture travel kit of toothbrush and toothpaste,
10)(optional)a small bar of soap,
10)and some home made hardtack as food double ziplock bagged, or about 20 individually wrapped hard candies in a ziplock bag,
11) optionally you can place a miniture am/fm radio with extra batteries in there as well which you can get on ebay or at the Dollar General for around $3,

NOTE: With either cache use a plastic bag or wrap over the container opening and place the lid on over it and screw in on to help ensure a more water tight seal.

Tracking down geocache sites around your home may lead to discovering
new rally points, become familiar with your surroundings and learn of resources
your area may hold. Such as water sources, edible plants, wild life, sheltering
spots and vantage points.


Geocaching has been around alot longer then most know. You may be
surprised by how many geocaches there actually are around your home
or in your town, maybe hundreds or even thousands. Discover the immediate
world around you, it may save your life, and above all else, have fun while doing
it.

Monday, March 14, 2011

MONITOR NATIONAL THREATS SIMPLY

Monitor threats that apparently only the national government IS but the media slightly is monitoring. Straight from the National Terror Alert's website at:

http://www.nationalterroralert.com/

Saturday, March 12, 2011

HOW TO SETUP A SEALED/QUARANTINE ROOM

DISASTER SAFE ROOM

A safe room is an ultra-secure location within a residence.
The concept of a safe room is simple, prepare a room within
the interior of the home where the family can safely retreat
during a threat and wait for help while potentially lowering
the potential of the threat.

SEALING A SAFE ROOM

Pick a room with few, or if possible, no windows. Higher stories
are better because chemical agents sink. If possible, pick a
room with water, a toilet(makeshift if need be) and an electrical
outlet. Set aside plenty of duct tape for sealing, doors,windows and
vents. Prepare a 72 hour Go Pack and keep it in the room. Keep
inexpensive breathing filters in the room, rated at N95 or better
for each family member.

HOW TO PREPARE THE SEALED ROOM

All supplies should already be in the room.

To seal a room in a bio-chem emergency, first shut off all air intakes
into the house (heat, air, attic fans, ceiling fans, etc.). If your home
is heated with gas or uses gas appliances, shut off the gas. Get
into the sealed room , and take your gas mask with you if you have one.
In the selected room, run tape along any windows where the glass joins the sill, where the sill meets the frame, and over all window seams and joins.



Entirely cover the windows with polethylene sheeting, trash bags or
painter's drop plastic sheeting that you can buy at the dollar tree or
plastic shower curtains, anchoring the sheeting on every side on the
wall around the window, and seal the sheeting to the wall thoroughly
with duct tape.



When all the members of the family have entered the room, complete
the sealing of the room by using adhesive tapes such as duck tape,
packing tape, masking tape or painter's tape between the door
and the frame and between the frame and the wall. The space
between the door and the floor should be covered with a towel.
I’d pack that in firmly and seal it with duct tape as well.



Leave the front door unlocked, so as to allow rescue units to get into
the house if needed. Your room still may not be perfectly air tight, but
the air intake is quite diminished. Turn on the radio to get information.

Wait for an “All Clear” from the radio or from local municipal rescue/defense.
The wait could last for several hours.

Ideally, a sealed room has its own emergency filter that blocks particles
and purifies the air from toxins. In the event of an emergency though, tape
a towel to the back of the door so that it drapes over the space between
the floor and the bottom of the door and lightly tuck it under to act as
a filter but still allow some air flow into a room. When there is no door
but an archway is sealed with plastic, cut a 4 inch by 4 inch hole in the
plastic sheeting at head level then tape a towel over the hole to act as
an air filter using a bleach/water solution periodically sprayed on the
towel if a biological threat and vinegar if chemical or just plain water
for radioactive dust.



HOW TO CREATE A QUARANTINE ROOM

Using a separate room then your safe room either on the first floor or
the foyer area of the front door. Using duck tape and plastic sheeting
such as mentioned earlier, seal off the area, but only either unlocking
a window or the door by which potentially contaminated persons can
enter the room. Place 72 hours worth of food and water along with the
means to wash themselves and several trash bags, a change of clothing
and a means of using the toilet, be it a bucket or a cooking pot and the
necessary supplies to re-seal the room. Once all the supplies are
placed in the area, seal off the area and signal the person or persons
to enter the quarantine area. Once they are inside direct them to seal
their entrance into the room and strip off all clothing and place them
in a trash bag and then place that trash bag in another trash bag and
seal it as well by tying it then taping it shut. Next, have them wash
themselves with soap and water paying extra attention to their hair placing
the dirty water and rags in the makeshift toilet only if using soap and water,
never urinate in any solution containing bleach as there is a chemical
reaction between the ammonia in your urine and chlorine bleach creating
a toxic chlorine gas that eats holes in your lungs and will kill you in an
hour or so depending on the concentration of the gas and the size of the
quarantine room. Have them put on the new, clean clothes and get
comfortable because they will have to remain there for 72 hours before
entering the rest of the house with everyone else to ensure that they are
not infected of a biological agent, if chemical a noted response should be
visiable in hours. Keep the supplies ready so you can re-use the quarantine
room again if need be. If it is a radiological threat, once they have washed and
changed clothes they should be able to join the rest of the group in the house. If the threat is radiological, which ever side of the safe room you are using that is closest to an exterior house wall should be layered in radiation shielding material at least 3 feet high for you and your family to hide behind. This can be tipping over your refrigerator, re-positioning your washer and dryer, filling a plastic tub with water or stacking cases of bottled water. Draw a diagram of your first floor of your house. Now draw where all metal doors, fire places, and all large typical household metal appliances such as washer/dryer/dish washer/refrigerator and stove are. Now draw straight lines from the edges of these items through the house in the direction aiming towards the center of the house and shade in the area between the lines as if they were casting a shadow. These shaded areas are initial areas with lowered intensity potential for radiation penetration into your home. Pick a room where these shaded areas intersect and either is or close to the center of the house's floor plan, this room is typically the laundry room or pantry on the first floor or the kitchen or half bath nearest the main corridor in apartments. These areas will usually offer the greatest shielding and distance from radioactive fallout's radiation emissions.


HOW TO DECONTAMINATE YOURSELF

In order to decontaminate for radioactive dust or ash:

Remove all clothing and place inside a plastic trash bag then double
seal it by placing it in another trash bag and sealing it with tape. Next,
scrub yourself with soap and water paying extra attention to your hair
and the exposed parts of your body with hair such as your arms, legs
and face. Blow your nose or clean out your nostrils with tissue.

In order to decontaminate for a biological agent:

Remove all clothing and place inside a plastic trash bag then double
seal it by placing it in another trash bag and sealing it with tape. Next,
scrub yourself with 1 part bleach and 10 parts water solution over
your body paying special attention to your finger nails but not your
hair, face or sensitive areas, where you should use soap and water.
Blow your nose or clean out your nostrils with tissue.

In order to decontaminate for chemical agent:

Remove all clothing and place inside a plastic trash bag then double
seal it by placing it in another trash bag and sealing it with tape. Next,
using either activated charcoal, regular(non-quick lighting) charcoal
briquettes(if it smells like lighter fluid then don't use it) or crushed
wood coals(refer to how to make coal), scrub your skin that was exposed to
the chemical agent to include your face, neck and exposed arms and legs then
wash it off with soap and water. Blow your nose or clean out your nostrils with tissue.

RISK FACTORS FOR A BIOLOGICAL ATTACK:

All biological weapons have a high failure rate in terrorist attacks because
even though they are quite deadly, dispersal/delivery of them in an effective
way is difficult. Changes in ph of air quality, changes in temperature and
humidity, changes in environment, and life span of the entity itself make
efficient delivery of these bacteria and viruses difficult.

For example, Anthrax is, for all intents and purposes, 100 percent deadly
when it enters the lungs of human beings. The minimum fatal dose for a
person is one Anthrax spore. Yet spores that are small enough to infiltrate
the blood vessels of the human lungs also tend to be highly static.
They clump together and adhere to dust and dirt particles, which then
make them too big to infiltrate the lungs. This problem of Anthrax delivery
means that any people at “ground zero” of an Anthrax attack would
probably be infected if they were directly exposed to a cloud or vapor
falling on them. But those who get a warning signal and retreat into
sealed rooms would have a good chance of survival.

Anthrax has a very small rate of “secondary uptake,” which means that
once it hits the ground, it tends to end its delivery cycle. People who
shelter in sealed rooms would have the unpleasant task of waiting it out
for hours (as long as 24 hours) before they could move, and then would
have to wait for days to see if they were infected or not, but as long as
they remained calm and secluded from sprayed or “treated” (ie, infected)
areas, they could escape infection.

Smallpox is far more persistent than Anthrax, (though less fatal, with a
mortality rate at about 33% – 66%), and people at ground zero of an
attack would fare the worst. But once it has been identified, people
secure from the initial infection would have to be prepared to quarantine
themselves to avoid contact from victims whose symptoms would not
appear for several weeks. As difficult as this is, our society is better
equipped to do this than it’s ever been before. Telecommuting is a
fact of life.

Dispersing biological agents in a crop dusting plane is currently the
quickest, most effective scenario yet envisioned. But the plane would
have to fly quite low to drop enough of a concentration in a stable
medium. From the evidence of one would-be terrorist who was
arrested on September 22, 2001, using crop dusting equipment has
at least entered the minds of some terrorist planners. But has not yet
been attempted.

The more likely and dangerous alternative is for a biological weapon
to be entered into the water supply unless it is a more contagious and
aggressive biological agent. Filtering and water purification in the home
may hinder the effectiveness of such a plan, and certainly boiling water
for six minutes would probably kill any biological entity. But poisoning
could occur and last for several days before symptoms appear.
Drinking bottled water or at least boiling all water that comes from the
tap (for six minutes) before you drink it might be a good precautionary
step, if you fear a biological attack.

Chemical warfare terrorism is much more likely in terms of past
successes with chemical agents. Mustard gas canisters can be
opened and their vapors simply allowed to disperse—no explosions,
no bursts of munitions, just quiet vapors. Their damage would not
be known for a couple days. An unsuspecting and crowded public
could suffer catastrophic pain, injury, blindness, and loss of life two
days after the fact of exposure. This is one of the most realistic and
horrifying of scenarios. Yet it is one that an educated public can
prevent. Do not stand in any area where vapors are escaping.
Teach your children not to stand in plumes of smoke or run
through any vaporous substance. Iraq used mustard gas in smoke
bombs, thus enticing Iranian soldiers to run into the smoke to
pursue supposedly retreating enemy soldiers. It was a highly
successful ruse.

People in crowded or enclosed places are in the greatest danger
of a terrorist chemical agent attack. Granted, a city might just get
bombed by chemical warheads, but that scenario is not nearly as
likely as a crowded building being sealed off from the outside and
a chemical agent introduced into the ventilation system or simply
opened up in the corners.

We know from the Tokyo subway attack that subways, terminals,
even trains and planes are in the most danger of attacks like these.
As are crowded buildings—especially theaters, which have no
windows and are dark.

Many people buy gas masks, but chem-bio weapons can strike
when a gas mask and bio-suit are out of range. And for the terrorist,
that’s the ideal situation. So the answer is to be smarter than
terrorists. Avoid crowded and dark, enclosed building interiors
that rely heavily on a ventilation system rather than open windows
and fresh air. Visit enclosed buildings only when it’s necessary, in
their off-peak hours. (Remember, as we learned on September 11,
our enemies like to make grand displays in very public places.) For
example, go to the mall as soon as it opens or at around three in
the afternoon on weekdays: NOT on Saturdays at noon. Don’t go
to movies on opening night. If you are in a crowded, enclosed
building, always know where the exits are and your path to reach
them. Don’t linger; just complete your tasks and leave. Simply
being very aware of your immediate environment has always been
the first good defense.

WHAT TO DO IN THE EVENT OF A DIRTY BOMB

WHAT TO DO IN THE EVENT THAT A DIRTY BOMB IS DETONATED IN YOUR AREA

Because of recent terrorist events, people have expressed concern about the possibility of a terrorist attack involving radioactive materials, possibly through the use of a “dirty bomb,” and the harmful effects of radiation from such an event. This fact sheet was prepared to help people understand what a dirty bomb is and how it may affect their health.

WHAT IS A DIRTY BOMB?

A dirty bomb, or radiological dispersion device, is a bomb that combines conventional explosives, such as dynamite, with radioactive materials in the form of powder or pellets. The idea behind a dirty bomb is to blast radioactive material into the area around the explosion. This could possibly cause buildings
and people to be exposed to radioactive material. The main purpose of a dirty bomb is to frighten people and make buildings or land unusable for a long period of time.

DIRTY BOMB VERSUS THE ATOMIC BOMBS OF HIROSHIMA AND NAGASAKI

The atomic explosions that occurred in Hiroshima and Nagasaki were conventional nuclear weapons involving a fission reaction. A dirty bomb is designed to spread radioactive material and contaminate a small area. It does not include the fission products necessary to create a large blast like those seen in Hiroshima and Nagasaki.

HOW MUCH EXPERTISE DOES IT TAKE TO MAKE A DIRTY BOMB?

Not much more than it takes to make a conventional bomb. No special assembly is required; the regular explosive would simply disperse the radioactive material packed into the bomb. The hard part is acquiring the radioactive material, not building the bomb. The Washington Post reported in March 2002 that the Bush
administration’s consensus view was that Osama bin Laden’s al Qaeda terrorist network probably had such often-stolen radioactive contaminants as strontium 90 and cesium 137, which could be used to make a dirty bomb. In January 2003, British officials found documents in the Afghan city of Herat that led them to conclude
that al Qaeda had successfully built a small dirty bomb. In late December 2003, homeland security officials worried that al Qaeda would detonate a dirty bomb during New Year’s Eve celebrations or college football bowl games, according to The Washington Post. The Department of Energy sent scores of undercover nuclear scientists with radiation detection equipment to key locations in five major U.S. cities, the Post reported.

The relative ease of constructing such weapons makes them a particularly worrisome threat, counterterrorism experts say. Even so, expertise matters. Not all dirty bombs are equally dangerous: the cruder the weapon, the less damage caused. We don’t know if terrorists could handle and detonate high-grade radioactive material
without fatally injuring themselves first.

IS A DIRTY BOMB A NUCLEAR WEAPON?

No. Nuclear weapons involve a complex nuclear-fission reaction and are thousands of times more devastating.

IS A DIRTY BOMB A WEAPON OF MASS DESTRUCTION?

Yes, but more because of its capacity to cause terror and disruption than its ability to inflict heavy casualties, experts say. Depending on the sophistication of the bomb, wind conditions, and the speed with which the area of the attack was evacuated, the number of deaths and injuries from a dirty bomb explosion might not be substantially greater than from a conventional bomb explosion. But panic over radioactivity and evacuation measures could snarl a city. Moreover, the area struck would be off-limits for at least several months—possibly years—during cleanup efforts, which could paralyze a local economy and reinforce public fears about being
near a radioactive area.

SOURCES OF THE RADIOACTIVE MATERIAL IN DIRTY BOMBS

There has been a lot of speculation about where terrorists could get radioactive material to place in a dirty bomb. The most harmful radioactive materials are found in nuclear power plants and nuclear weapons sites. However, increased security at these facilities makes obtaining materials from them more difficult. Because of the dangerous and difficult aspects of obtaining high-level radioactive materials from a nuclear facility, there is a greater chance that the radioactive materials used in a dirty bomb would come from low-level radioactive sources. Low-level radioactive sources are found in hospitals, on construction sites, and at food irradiation plants. The sources in these areas are used to diagnose and treat illnesses, sterilize equipment, inspect welding seams, and irradiate food to kill harmful microbes.

DANGERS OF A DIRTY BOMB

If low-level radioactive sources were to be used, the primary danger from a dirty bomb would be the blast itself. Gauging how much radiation might be present is difficult when the source of the radiation is unknown. However, at the levels created by most probable sources, not enough radiation would be present in a dirty bomb to cause severe illness from exposure to radiation.

PAST USE OF DIRTY BOMBS

According to a United Nations report, Iraq tested a dirty bomb device in 1987 but found that the radiation levels were too low to cause significant damage. Thus, Iraq abandoned any further use of the device.

WHAT PEOPLE SHOULD DO FOLLOWING THE DETONATION OF A DIRTY BOMB



* Radiation cannot be seen, smelled, felt, or tasted by humans. Therefore, if people are present at the scene of an explosion from a suspected dirty bomb, they will not know whether radioactive materials were involved at the time of the explosion. If people are not too severely injured by the initial blast,they should:

* Leave the immediate area on foot.

* Move in the opposite direction of wind, look for blowing trash or the direction of ash fall, smoke trail travel or cup your hands under your face and watch in what direction the dust in the air from the blast is traveling in as it becomes visible as it floats over a contrast in color.

* Do not panic.

* Cover your nose and mouth with any piece of fabric to prevent the inhalation of radioactive ash or toxic explosive or construction material ash as in the 9/11 twin towers toxic dust and ash following their collapse. You can even use your purse over opened over your mouth and nose as a makeshift face mask. DO NOT use a military / commercial grade gas mask as the ash will clog the filters in as little as a few minutes. Use something more porous such as a t-shirt to stop large ash particles when close to the explosion site. The further away from the detonation site you are the higher grade filtering you will need. If in your home or miles downwind then you can make effective use of a military or commercial grade mask filtration system. If a true gas mask is unavailable then use medical face masks. If medical grade dust masks are unavailable either use a shirt or blouse tied over your nose and mouth or refer to future post on home made gas masks.



* Do not take public or private transportation such as buses, subways, or cars because if radioactive materials were involved, they may contaminate cars or the public transportation system. Expect all major roadways leaving the area to be clogged with traffic and panicked people there-by blocking emergency services and compounding the situation. The longer the area is without authority figures to control the situation the more people tend to panic usually to the point of hysteria by the time emergency services are able to even assess the situation. Do not expect to get an official response from local authorities as whether or not it is radioactive or biological for at least several hours so take precautions ahead of official notification just in case.



* Go inside the nearest building. Staying inside will reduce people’s exposure to any radioactive material from a dirty bomb that may be on dust at the scene.

* Remove their clothes as soon as possible, place them in a plastic bag, and seal it. Removing clothing will remove most of the contamination caused by external exposure to radioactive materials. Saving the contaminated clothing would allow testing for exposure without invasive sampling but ensure it is kept at least 30 feet from prolonged exposure to people .

* If you are home at the time, turn off your heating and cooling air units to prevent radioactive ash from being blown into your home. DO NOT SEAL YOUR ENTIRE HOME with plastic sheeting and duck tape over the door seams, air vents and windows. Block only the doors and windows on the side of the house facing the direction of where the blast occurred in relation to your home as this is the direction that current winds will carry small dust particles into the home through cracks and seams of windows and doors. Blocking all circulation of air not only creates an environment for a biological growth in the event the attack was biological versus radioactive dirty bomb, but creates a potentially carbon dioxide toxic environment.




* DO NOT VENTURE OUTSIDE OF YOUR HOME OR SEEK TO FIND LOVED ONES THAT WERE OUTSIDE
OF THE HOME AT THE TIME OF THE INCIDENT.

* Anyone arriving to your home after the explosion should be quarantined is a sealed safe room (refer to future post on creating a safe room) where they should strip off all clothing and wash themselves down thoroughly then remain separated from other members of the family for 72 hours to ensure the attack didn't contain a biological agent.

* Take a shower or wash themselves as best they can if exposed to dust from the explosion especially your hair. Washing will reduce the amount of radioactive contamination on the body and will effectively reduce total exposure. If in the home, ensure that you are fully dressed to prevent to much of your skin from potentially being coated in toxic ash or dust.

* Immediately fill all tubs and sinks and any available containers with tap water following the blast but no longer then one hour following the blast as municipal water sources may have become contaminated with radioactive ash.

* All plates, bowls, cups, pots and pans should be rinsed prior to use due to dust infiltration into your home. Use only bottled water or water stored immediately following the blast.

* Wash any fruit or vegetables sitting out on the counters before eating them following the blast due to the infiltration of radioactive ash / dust.

* Cover your bed linen and pillows with a blanket during the day to prevent dust from collecting on the linen surface where you and loved ones will make skin contact while sleeping. Sleep fully dressed to limit skin contact with potentially hazardous radioactive dust.

* Continue to wear some form of breathing barrier ie...shirt or dust mask even while sleeping until given the "ALL CLEAR" from the local authorities.

* Using ceiling fans during hot climate areas WILL jeopardize your home's integrity to dust infiltration. Using your fireplace in cold climate areas WILL pull dust into your home via door jams so use tissue paper or cloth to seal your doors as filters. Woodstoves, electric space heaters or portable electric fans will not jeopardize the integrity of your home to dust infiltration.

* Be on the lookout for information via the emergency broadcasts over the radio, t.v., internet, CDC text update or cb/ham radio emergency broadcast frequencies, national or local services (police, firefighters, medical or transportation). Once emergency personnel have assessed the scene and the damage, they will be able to tell people whether radiation was involved.

* Expect services to be interrupted such as a loss in water pressure or electricity, cell phone lines to be jammed from panicked call overload, natural gas has a tendency to be shut down to prevent fires from potential ruptured public lines, cable lines to be severed or overloaded same with the internet as these systems often share the same information transfer lines, all depending on the location of the explosive device, the strength of the device and local authority response procedures.

* Even if people do not know whether radioactive materials were present, following these simple steps can help reduce their injury from other chemicals that might have been present in the blast.

IF RADIOACTIVE MATERIALS WERE USED

Keep televisions or radios tuned to local news networks. If a radioactive material was released, people will be told where to report for radiation monitoring and blood tests to determine whether they were exposed to the radiation as well as what steps to take to protect their health.

RISK OF CANCER FROM A DIRTY BOMB

Some cancers can be caused by exposure to radiation. Being at the site where a dirty bomb exploded does not guarantee that people were exposed to the radioactive material. Until doctors are able to check people’s skin with sensitive radiation detection devices, it will not be clear whether they were exposed. Just because people are near a radioactive source for a short time or get a small amount of radioactive material on them does not mean that they will get cancer. Doctors will be able to assess risks after the exposure level has been determined.

EXPOSED TO RADIATION? NOW WHAT DO YOU DO?

EXPOSED TO RADIATION ?.......NOW WHAT DO YOU DO?
------------------------------------------------
What Types of Terrorist Events Might Involve Radiation?

Possible terrorist events could involve introducing radioactive material into
the food or water supply, using explosives (like dynamite) to scatter
radioactive materials (called a “dirty bomb”), bombing or destroying
a nuclear facility, or exploding a small nuclear device.


Although introducing radioactive material into the food or water supply most
likely would cause great concern or fear, it probably would not cause
much contamination or increase the danger of adverse health effects.

Although a dirty bomb could cause serious injuries from the explosion, it most
likely would not have enough radioactive material in a form that would
cause serious radiation sickness among large numbers of people. However,
people who were exposed to radiation scattered by the bomb could have
a greater risk of developing cancer later in life, depending on their
dose.


A meltdown or explosion at a nuclear facility could cause a large amount
of radioactive material to be released. People at the facility would
probably be contaminated with radioactive material and possibly be injured
if there was an explosion. Those people who received a large dose might
develop acute radiation syndrome. People in the surrounding area could
be exposed or contaminated.

Clearly, an exploded nuclear device could result in a lot of property damage.
People would be killed or injured from the blast and might be contaminated
by radioactive material. Many people could have symptoms of acute radiation
syndrome. After a nuclear explosion, radioactive fallout would extend
over a large region far from the point of impact, potentially increasing
people’s risk of developing cancer over time.

How Can I Protect Myself During a Radiation Emergency?

After a release of radioactive materials, local authorities will monitor the
levels of radiation and determine what protective actions to take.
The most appropriate action will depend on the situation. Tune to the local
emergency response network or news station for information and instructions
during any emergency.

If a radiation emergency involves the release of large amounts of radioactive
materials, you may be advised to “shelter in place,” which means to
stay in your home or office; or you may be advised to move to another
location.

If you are advised to shelter in place, you should do the following:

Close and lock all doors and windows.

Turn off fans, air conditioners, and forced-air heating units that bring
in fresh air from the outside. Only use units to recirculate air
that is already in the building.

Close fireplace dampers.

If possible, bring pets inside.

Move to a sealed room or basement.

Keep your radio tuned to the emergency response network or local news
to find out what else you need to do.

If you are advised to evacuate, follow the directions that your local officials
provide. Leave the area as quickly and orderly as possible. In addition–

Take your Go Pack.

Take pets only if you are using your own vehicle and going to a place
you know will accept animals. Emergency vehicles and shelters usually
will not accept animals. If you are unable to take your pets you have three
choices: either let your pets loose, leave them to their own trapped in
the house or put them out of their misery. Most will likely release their
pets to the open to fend for themselves, giving them at least a fighting
chance. One thing to consider though is that it may be a good idea to
release cats into the wild but to either kill the family dog or leave it locked
up inside the house as they will become aggressive threats to any human
survivors as pack predators and potential carriers of rabies.

What is Radiation?

Radiation is a form of energy that is present all around us.

Different types of radiation exist, some of which have more energy than others.

Amounts of radiation released into the environment are measured in units called
curies. However, the dose of radiation that a person receives is measured
in units called rem.

How Can Exposure Occur?

People are exposed to small amounts of radiation every day, both from naturally
occurring sources (such as elements in the soil or cosmic rays from
the sun), and man-made sources. Man-made sources include some electronic
equipment (such as microwave ovens and television sets), medical sources
(such as x-rays, certain diagnostic tests, and treatments), and from
nuclear weapons testing.

The amount of radiation from natural or man-made sources to which people
are exposed is usually small; a radiation emergency (such as a nuclear
power plant accident or a terrorist event) could expose people to small
or large doses of radiation, depending on the situation.

Scientists estimate that the average person in the United States receives a dose
of about one-third of a rem per year. About 80% of human exposure comes
from natural sources and the remaining 20% comes from man-made radiation
sources – mainly medical x-rays.

Internal exposure refers to radioactive material that is taken into the body
through breathing, eating, or drinking.

External exposure refers to an exposure to a radioactive source outside of our
bodies.

Contamination refers to particles of radioactive material that are deposited anywhere
that they are not supposed to be, such as on an object or on a person’s skin.

Health

Effects of Radiation Exposure

Radiation affects the body in different ways, but the adverse health consequences
of exposure may not be seen for many years.

Adverse health effects range from mild effects, such as skin reddening, to serious
effect such as cancer and death. These adverse health effects are determined
by the amount of radiation absorbed by the body (the dose), the type of radiation,
the route of exposure, and the length of time a person is exposed.

Acute radiation syndrome (ARS), or radiation sickness, is usually caused when
a person receives a high dose of radiation, to much for the body to handle in a
matter of minutes. Survivors of the Hiroshima and Nagasaki atomic bombs
and firefighters responding to the Chernobyl nuclear power plant event
in 1986 experienced ARS. The immediate symptoms of ARS are nausea, vomiting,
and diarrhea; later, bone marrow depletion may lead to weight loss,
loss of appetite, feeling like you have the flu, infection, and bleeding.
The survival rate depends on the radiation dose. For those who do survive,
full recovery takes from a few weeks to 2 years.

Children exposed to radiation may be more at risk than adults. Radiation exposure
to the unborn child is of special concern because the human embryo or
fetus is extremely sensitive to radiation.

Radiation exposure, like exposure to the sun, is cumulative.

Protecting Against Radiation Exposure

The three basic ways to reduce radiation exposure are through—

TIME

Decrease the amount of time you spend near the source of radiation.

DISTANCE

Increase your distance from a radiation source.

SHIELDING

Increase the shielding between you and the radiation source. Shielding is anything
that creates a barrier between people and the radiation source. Depending
on the type of radiation, the shielding can range from something as
thin as a plate of window glass or as thick as several feet of concrete.
Being inside a building or a vehicle can provide shielding from some
kinds of radiation while a dust mask or clothing will shield you from others.

RADIOACTIVE FALLOUT


Fallout arriving within a few hours after a nuclear explosion is highly radioactive. If it collects on the skin in large enough quantities it can cause beta burns. People who are caught outside in fallout should brush fallout particles off themselves and shake out their outer garments as soon as they get inside. Some people may be carrying umbrellas and wearing raincoats to keep the fallout particles off their skin and hair. Most fallout particles will be like grains of fine, dark sand and can be easily brushed off from dry surfaces. Fallout particles may stick to moist or oily surfaces, including sweaty or oily skin or hair. These surfaces
should be carefully wiped or washed off. If contaminated hair cannot be washed, it should be thoroughly brushed or combed, with frequent shaking and wiping of the hair and also of the brush or comb. It is not necessary to get the last speck of fallout out of the clothing or hair or off the skin. A few grains of fallout carried by each person into the safest parts of the home or shelter will produce no noticeable increase in the radiation hazard and will not be detectable by the radiological instruments. Daily sweeping of the area for hygienic reasons will eliminate most fallout particles that may be carried into the area even after decontamination procedures. After they have shaken out their clothing and wiped off their exposed skin, they should dust off their shoes with a brush or broom before moving further into the shelter and sweep the area. If the shoes are caked with mud or dust, they should be left in the quarantine area or outside. Because the fallout particles will fall down to the floor, decontamination of a person should begin with the
head and end with the feet. Brushing off or removing the shoes will be the last step of decontamination before a person enters the safer parts of your home or shelter.

TAKING POTASSIUM IODIDE (KI)

Potassium iodide, also called KI, only protects a person’s thyroid gland from exposure to radioactive iodine. KI will not protect a person from other radioactive materials or protect other parts of the body from exposure to radiation. It must be taken prior to exposure (for example, if people hear that a radioactive cloud is coming their way) or immediately after exposure to be effective. Taking KI is not recommended unless there is a risk of exposure to radioactive iodine which is a major uranium fission product and of fissionable materials used in nuclear power plants. Taking (KI) is most advisable in the event of a radioactive dirty bomb detonation or meltdown of a nuclear power plant. KI (potassium salts) saturate the thyroid preventing it from absorbing radioactive iodine. The most likely scenario is radioactive fallout from a nuclear power plant meltdown, even possibly fallout originating from far overseas, but would at the most only require 10-14 days protection from radioiodine by taking Potassium Iodide (KI) tablets and having pre-stocked safe food and water in case people panic and stampede food stores.

USING IODINE TO SHIELD AGAINST RADIATION

In an emergency, if you are unable to acquire KI tablets, you can topically (on the skin) apply an iodine solution, like tincture of iodine or Betadine, for a similar protective effect. (WARNING: Iodine is NEVER to be ingested or swallowed, it is poison to drink.) For adults, paint, 8 ml of a 2 percent tincture of Iodine on the abdomen or forearm each day, ideally at least 2 hours prior to initial exposure for absorption. For children 3 to 18, but under 150 pounds, only half that amount painted on daily, or 4 ml. For children under 3 but older than a month, half again, or 2 ml. For newborns to 1 month old, half it again, or just 1 ml. (One measuring teaspoon is about 5 ml, if you don't have a medicine dropper graduated in ml.) If your iodine solution is stronger than 2%, reduce the dosage accordingly.
Absorption through the skin is not as reliable a dosing method as using the tablets, but tests show that it will still be very effective for most. Use half these doses when using 10% providone iodine solution.


DRINKING RED WINE TO SHIELD AGAINST RADIATION


One of the isotopes likely to be released in a fissionable reactor is strontium 90, which is absorbed in the bones as beta radiation because it´s chemically similar to calcium. So you end up with nuked bones cooking you up from the inside out, same as beta radiation from radioactive ash fallout following a nuclear detonation. Wine, and apparently red in particular, contains strontium 85 which is non radioactive, so if you load up on red wine following a nuclear detonation or reactor meltdown, you saturate the amount of strontium your body can absorb with the non-radioactive strontium 85 and thus the bad isotope strontium 90 just passes through in your urine unable to attach to the bones.

DRINKING LIQUOR TO FLUSH RADIATION


Drinking liquor helps flush radioactive alpha particles that have been ingested through your system by acting as a diuretic forcing your body to dump excess water. This of course can probably be achieved by drinking copious amounts of water but would not be anywhere near as much fun. Plus, the effects of alcohol may help alleviate the stress of the situation in which you are currently in. Some argue that another reason to use liquor instead of water is that alcohol makes the blood viscous preventing particles that lodge in the bones from being able to get to the bones and are flushed out in the urine, either way you had me sold at liquor. Apparently this is what the general Russian public was taught during the cold war in order for them to protect themselves following a nuclear war from radiation.  They were told to drink vodka as it was their responsibility to the state to remain alive and fit to help rebuild the country in order to ensure they were able to strike back at their enemies, you've gotta love their survivalist mindset.

For more information about radiation, check the following Web sites: www.epa.gov/radiation, or
www.orau.gov/reacts/define.htm,

Thursday, March 10, 2011

Monday, March 7, 2011

HAVE YOU SEEN THIS PLANT?








This plant is not native to my area (central/east) or most where it is used as a lawn enhancer across the U.S. with the obvious exception of the west coast. But, this plant has many interesting qualities that make it a useful plant in a post apocalyptic or "services temporarily disrupted" situation :) First off, the barbed tip when bent backwards a quarter inch from the tip, can be peeled off along the back side of the leaf, with the meat of the plant scraped off by a knife or similar object and trimmed down it becomes a sewing needle with thread already attached. In the picture you will see two that my 13 year old daughter did on her first attempts. These are adequate enough to sew torn clothing or similar uses and if dried out should allow for them to be used for stitching wounds, I would drink a lot of alcohol first though to dull the pain, but if a sterile needle isn't handy, necessity dictates. Also, when you scrape the meat off the leaves and tear it into 1/8 inch strips then braid them into simple cordage, it becomes by far the strongest cordage I have come across naturally that can support so much weight while being such a thin cord/rope. The simple cordage here is actually three cords made from three leaves then woven together and it's still very thin. Each simple cord could hold over 50 pounds, all three together as in the picture held my weight with ease, no creaking or breaking of fibers and I weigh around 170 pounds. It took my whole weight as you can see it biting into the sole of my sneaker, and no I didn't use my hands to take off weight but I did use them for stabilization. I used my fake leg in case it broke, didn't want to scrape my good leg on metal but my fake one is damn near bullet-proof. So, if you notice this plant in your neighborhood or on the side of the road, mentally jot it down. You may need it one day.

** NOTE**
Any plant with a fiberous leaf (difficult to tear across fibers) and a hardened (often darkened) sharp tip can be used as the palm above.

Saturday, March 5, 2011

RSS FEEDS!

THAT'S RIGHT, RSS FEEDS! NOW YOU CAN LINK TO THE SITE DIRECTLY AND GET UP TO THE MINUTE POST UPDATES! JUST SCROLL DOWN TO THE BOTTOM OF THE SCREEN TO JOIN.

TAKE THE POLL!

DON'T FORGET TO TAKE THIS MONTH'S POLL OR QUIZ AT THE BOOTOM OF THE SCREEN. ALSO, YOU CAN PICK MULTIPLE ANSWERS.

SPREAD THE WORD!

Help out the site! If you come across a topic you think has useful information that others you know may find useful, then feel free to share it with others via facebook, twitter or what ever other form of media you use just by clicking share at the bottom of the post then pick which medium and click publish.

HOW TO MAKE BREAD FROM WOOD

How to make bread from wood

There was a time in our nation's history when times were so difficult that people were advised on how they could use wood in place of flour to bake their bread. This actual procedure was first shared through The Emigrant's Handbook (1848).


1.1
Chop fresh (green) beech tree wood into shaving sized pieces. You may substitute other turpentine free wood for the beech tree if you like.

2.2
Boil the beech shavings three or four times, stirring as they boil. This will take a strong hand to do as wet wood shavings are very heavy. Don't make too big a batch at a time unless you have a muscular helper.

3.3
Dry the shavings out. Laying them out flat on a clean surface in the sun is likely the most appropriate way of doing this. Using a cheesecloth or clean white linen would be preferable as you will need to pick them up once dry and they will crumble up.

4.4
Work them around with a firm hand to reduce the wood shavings into a powder, if possible. If you can't get them into powder form, at least break them up as best you can.

5.5
Bake the wood powder/crumbs in your oven 3 or 4 times using a large cookie sheet. The guide does not specify at what degree you would use. Remember, this was in 1848! I would suggest using a very low temperature. You are just encouraging the moisture to become completely evaporated from the wood at this stage.

6.6
Grind the wood powder/crumbs as you would grind corn. This will take on the same smell as corn flour at this point. It is reputed that it also tastes like corn flour. No leaven is required to prevent fermentation but you can use corn flour leaven if you wish.

7.7
Use your new wood flour to bake your bread. This wood flour is said to produce a spongy bread and "when much baked with a hard crust, is by no means unpalatable."

WILD EDIBLE MUSHROOMS

Here are 2 good websites that will give the basic knowledge all should know.

http://americanmushrooms.com/ewmona.htm

http://www.wildwoodsurvival.com/survival/food/edibleplants/index.html

Enjoy

LONG TERM WATER STORAGE




LONG TERM WATER STORAGE
---------------------------------------------------

This is very simple with many misconceptions. There are certain
containers that you should not use to store water for long term. First
sterilize the containers with a high bleach/water solution of 1 to 10 parts.

CONTAINERS NOT TO USE
-----------------------------------------
1) Any containers that contained corrosive or toxic chemicals(such as
antifreeze, paint, cleaners, bleach, gasoline ect...ect...)
2) Any containers that contained dairy products.

CONTAINERS TO USE
------------------------------------------
1) Tea, water or juice gallon plastic jugs.
2) Soda bottles (16oz/20oz/1 liter/2 liter/3 liter).
3) Approved containers intended for water storage.


CONTAINER PREP
----------------------------
Depending on what your using either unscented bleach or 2% iodine
or 10% providone will determine how much of what goes into each container.
For costs and effectiveness I use chlorinated bleach, 2 drops per quart or 8
drops per gallon, the water should have a slight chlorine smell to it. Using tap water is fine but expect algae to eventually grow especially if they're storage location is subject to room temperatures or higher. Water can be stored indefinately, if algae forms on the inside of the bottles it does'nt make the water unsafe to drink. In fact, the algae is edible and is free food so go ahead and store your water now and place it somewhere out of direct sunlight and in an area where it's temperature will stay cool. With new never used containers rinse with water first to ensure any particulates or manufacturing contaminants are washed out to ensure your long term water isn't contaminated by leaching chemicals or debris. As a rule of thumb I use hot water from the tap to help ensure once it is cooled it creates a vacuum seal helping limit the amount of possible air in the container by filling it to the brim, some containers don't allow it as there is an inlet valve on the backend of larger containers and filling it that high will just leak out on your floor but as long as it is sealed the chlorine isn't going anywhere. The same process as if you were canning food for winter but the reasoning behind it is that chlorine evaporates out of water and into the air, hence why you have to put chlorine in your pool so frequently.

NOTE: If you drink alot of bottled water, think of switching to gallon jugs of water and using a personal water bottle or old soda bottle to carry it in. There are several reasons why this is a better way then just buying pre-packaged bottle water. First off, it's better for the environment, second, 6 gallons of water are polluted in order to make one plastic water bottle (potable water is currently our most valuable commodity (less then 1% of all water on the planet is potable/drinkable) expected to be depleted long before oil), thirdly, it costs between $3-$4 per 24 pack of water bottles but only $1.41 to refill 4 one gallon jugs of six stage reverse osmosis filtered and twice UV treated water with no additives unlike bottled water or being just basic filtered tap water sold back to the consumer at a 1600% mark-up , fourthly,and arguably the most important reason, if you stockpile a month's worth of water each month as I do, and sense I drink a gallon a day, thats 30 gallons, alot I know, but it only costs me $11.10 for the equivalent of $28 in bottled water and depending on the time of the month should something happen, I have plenty of potable water for the med/high range future (72 hours=short/1-3 weeks=medium/1-3 months=med/high/6-12 months=long)I hope this helps.

**NOTE**
Cheaper still, just reuse your soda bottles, the plastic in soda bottles is thicker and will last longer and punctures are less likely.

LOCATING WATER SOURCES IN YOUR HOME











LOCATING WATER SOURCES IN YOUR HOME
---------------------------------------------------------------------

The point of this post is to make aware all of the places that water can be acquired
in your own home once the sirens blare, the people panic and the water pressure
drops and the last few drops of precious life giving water drops into your drain.
What now? I didn't store any water, what do I do to get water if I don't live next
to a river? I will give you a list of where you can get water in your home but chances are your not going to like most of them. Just remember that the water that comes out of your sink faucet, is the same water that's in your toilet

1) The first one, take a guess, that's right, your toilet bowl,(just syphon it out
as you would a gas tank)
2) The toilet reservoir,(just syphon it out as you would a gas tank)
3) The hot water heater (there is a release valve on the water heater that will
allow you release the water into a basin which usually drains away from your
house, just clog the drain)
4) The elbow joints of sinks (most are made of PVC so use a simple steak knife
twisting back and forth at the lowest point in one spot scraping a hole into the
joint, make sure to have a bucket or bowl to catch the water.
5) Once the power has gone out, remove the food from the fridge before it begins
to spoil and place much of it in the trash after the first couple of days.
Meats, you will need to start eating them once the power goes out till they have
thawed on their own. They will remain frozen for a couple days after the power
goes out as long as it stays in the freezer with all the other frozen items. Once
the freezer is thawed though all the water will flow into a reservoir which is
usually a tray located above the compressor towards the back and bottom of the
fridge. Collect this water but filter and biologically purify it before drinking
as it will have blood from the meats and possible chemical contaminates from the
refrigerants.
6) Next go to your garage to get to your car, the windshield wiper fluid reservoir and
your radiators hold water. Do not drink radiator fluid as it is fatal. The
water will have to be separated from these fluids. Place these fluids in a trash
can or bucket, get a cup and some string or dental floss and a trash bag or some
plastic wrap. Now tie the cup right side up to the center of the plastic but
giving it about 3 inches of space between the cup and the plastic. Secure it by
placing a small object in the plastic and tying the cup around the object in the
plastic. Cover the bucket or trashcan with the plastic and secure it around the
top somehow, tape it or tie it down. Now place the can or bucket outside in the
sun. As the water evaporates it collects on the plastic and rolls down to drip
into the cup.
7) This will sound disgusting but may become necessary, you ready? You can drink
your own urine, doesn't taste great but it may mean the difference between life
and death. The method above is a system that can be used to recycle water from
your urine as well on a regular basis.
8) You can also redirect your rain gutters by cutting or breaking off the bottom
section and placing your trash cans under the gutters to create cisterns to catch
the rain water. Once again rain water may be soft water but it is not
biologically safe so filter it and purify it before drinking.
9) Another option is recapturing water trapped by pressure in your house's water
lines by first making holes in the pipes at their lowest levels then opening the
faucets at the highest levels.
10) If you have a garden hose and it is spooled then there is water trapped in the
wraps so cap the end, unravel it in a straight line and place something at the
end to catch the water then uncap it and starting at the water spigot where the
hose is attached at the house, lift the hose so that gravity will force the
water to travel to the lowest point walking it down the line until the water
dumps into your bucket or bowl.
11) If you have bushes in your yard you can place trash bags over sections making
sure one of the corners is a low point so that collected plant respiration can
puddle, then you just place something to catch the water at the bottom where the
bag opening is and tilt the bag until gravity feeds the water into you
container. The same can be done with tree branches as well.
12) Some items in your cupboard or fridge may have water such as a jar of olives and
pickles, cans of vegetables and tuna, frozen juice concentrates when combined
with water will act as food as far as providing calories.

**NOTE**

Treat all water sources, especially water from the toilet bowl, toilet reservoir, freezer drain basin, hot water heater, outside hose pipe, interior water pipes and collected rain water as biologically and or chemically unsafe. Water from these locations tend to carry bacteria that can make a survival situation even worse if not treated first. For all but the collected rain water and the freezer drain basin, adding bleach as directed in the article "Long Term Water Storage" should do the trick. Collected rain water tends to have heavy metals and other carcinogens from vehicle exhaust or other petrol by-products from road and or roof run-off and should be distilled instead. Freezer drain basins are very biologically unsafe without treatment as bacteria from rotting meat juices and the like are amongst the water and chemically unsafe from refrigerates and such. It will need to be distilled as well. There are several different distillation methods, please refer to the article "Emergency Water Distillation".
And that's it folks! Just remember not to drink severe diuretics such as alcohol while struggling through a water shortage survival situation as they will greatly dehydrate you, save it for when the power is back on or to use as a trade item, disinfectant or fuel source.